Jump to content
SAU Community

Is It Normal For Service To Make Your Car Feel Different?

Brandon

By Brandon,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted

As mention in topic, my car feels slightly more responsive and smoother after,

1) oil change (same brand, Royal Purple HPS, but the workshop used 5W30 instead of the usual 10W40) Not sure if the ones I have been using is HPS or not.

2) spark plug change from platinum to iridium (Denso)

3) oil filter and fuel filter change

4) clutch bleeding (not asked for but they did it cause they suspect my clutch is worn but its not)

Does any of the above affect the response and smooth-ness of the engine much? I told him 5W30 should be fine since its winter but next time I would like to have 10W40 again. Having said that he assured me a good engine can run 5W30 without issues at all unless its blowing smoke.

Advise pleaseeeee. Thank you.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Variables:-

What was the condition of your old plugs Brandon?

Did you blow through the old fuel filter to see if the residual fuel was discoloured?

Incremental change of old oil to new (and thinner), can result in a noticeable +ve smoothness.

Did the clutch bleed result in extra bite on take-off?

  • Like 1
Greekos Proficient

Greekos

Posted
Posted

you bet, by the time you change your oil most the additives would have gone off bla bla same with coolant, brake fluid and filters, the more you look after your car the better it will run and the longer it will last!

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I didn't not get the chance to see the plugs and filter unfortunately.

Dont get me wrong, the car has never given me any issues other than the usual failure due to age/wear. The 2 thing I suspect is the thinner oil and possibly plugs.

The plugs looks clean from previous service but its been awhile since I change them. However, the gap may be too big? I think it's 1mm. Maybe iridium gives a better spark over platinum?

The clutch is still easy to drive being a coppermix. They just bleed it cause they thought the free play was too much. However, it does feel firmer and slightly stiffer.

All in all I'm happy that the car is running smoother. Not saying it's bad before but if the oil is the key, are there any potential issue which can be fatal to the car by sticking with the thinner oil? Or should I go back to 10w40 for my next service since it'll be summer?

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

Right. Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it this weekend. But driving around yesterday doesn't seem like there is. It'll have smoke in the first gear for once (like cleaning the exhaust carbon) if I floor it but everything else seemed pretty normal.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

darksky34 Mentor

darksky34

Posted
Posted

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

no shit about the placebo effect! I would seriously doubt a fuel filter change would make any difference at idle, when the fuel requirements are at their lowest.....
Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not sure but for RB26, you'd do the pulley/idler/tensioner whatever you call them when you change the water pump. Just to save the time and effort.

I'm about to change my water pump on my stagea for the first time do I need to remove the crank pulley to accomplish that or am I able to avoid it?

badben Enthusiast

badben

Posted
Posted

5W-30 should be fine. It's more when under load that the thinner oil would start to no protect as much as a thicker oil. Nissan oil is 7.5W-30 for 200SX anyway.

32 gtr's are the same. Factory they run 7.5-30. A car with a new rb would be fine. An old engine with 100000 will have bigger clearances thus requiring a thinker oil.

badben Enthusiast

badben

Posted
Posted

Reply to this as well ^^^^^^^

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...