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As mention in topic, my car feels slightly more responsive and smoother after,

1) oil change (same brand, Royal Purple HPS, but the workshop used 5W30 instead of the usual 10W40) Not sure if the ones I have been using is HPS or not.

2) spark plug change from platinum to iridium (Denso)

3) oil filter and fuel filter change

4) clutch bleeding (not asked for but they did it cause they suspect my clutch is worn but its not)

Does any of the above affect the response and smooth-ness of the engine much? I told him 5W30 should be fine since its winter but next time I would like to have 10W40 again. Having said that he assured me a good engine can run 5W30 without issues at all unless its blowing smoke.

Advise pleaseeeee. Thank you.

Variables:-

What was the condition of your old plugs Brandon?

Did you blow through the old fuel filter to see if the residual fuel was discoloured?

Incremental change of old oil to new (and thinner), can result in a noticeable +ve smoothness.

Did the clutch bleed result in extra bite on take-off?

  • Like 1

you bet, by the time you change your oil most the additives would have gone off bla bla same with coolant, brake fluid and filters, the more you look after your car the better it will run and the longer it will last!

I didn't not get the chance to see the plugs and filter unfortunately.

Dont get me wrong, the car has never given me any issues other than the usual failure due to age/wear. The 2 thing I suspect is the thinner oil and possibly plugs.

The plugs looks clean from previous service but its been awhile since I change them. However, the gap may be too big? I think it's 1mm. Maybe iridium gives a better spark over platinum?

The clutch is still easy to drive being a coppermix. They just bleed it cause they thought the free play was too much. However, it does feel firmer and slightly stiffer.

All in all I'm happy that the car is running smoother. Not saying it's bad before but if the oil is the key, are there any potential issue which can be fatal to the car by sticking with the thinner oil? Or should I go back to 10w40 for my next service since it'll be summer?

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

Right. Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it this weekend. But driving around yesterday doesn't seem like there is. It'll have smoke in the first gear for once (like cleaning the exhaust carbon) if I floor it but everything else seemed pretty normal.

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

no shit about the placebo effect! I would seriously doubt a fuel filter change would make any difference at idle, when the fuel requirements are at their lowest.....

Not sure but for RB26, you'd do the pulley/idler/tensioner whatever you call them when you change the water pump. Just to save the time and effort.

I'm about to change my water pump on my stagea for the first time do I need to remove the crank pulley to accomplish that or am I able to avoid it?

5W-30 should be fine. It's more when under load that the thinner oil would start to no protect as much as a thicker oil. Nissan oil is 7.5W-30 for 200SX anyway.

32 gtr's are the same. Factory they run 7.5-30. A car with a new rb would be fine. An old engine with 100000 will have bigger clearances thus requiring a thinker oil.

Reply to this as well ^^^^^^^

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

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