Jump to content
SAU Community

Wiring In Boost Solenoid For Link G4 Plugin On Rb25

robbo_rb180
 Share

Recommended Posts

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

I am about to wire in a solenoid for my rb25, the factory wiring has been removed/shortened/missing.

I have found the factory output wire on the ecu connector but need +12V Ign.

Am I able to use either pin 49/59 as they are switched from eccs relay for the +12V or am I better of running a wire from the Ignition?

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why not look at the original wiring diagram?

As above, wire the mac valve to the original solenoid wiring

got the diagrams and looked over them that's not the issue

who ever did the engine conversion originally, removed half the pins from the engine loom.

I've got the wire on the ecu for the solenoid now I just need +12V. just wanted to keep it neat by using a +12v from ecu

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

But that's the point. Find out, from the original wiring diagrams, where the factory sourced their 12V from, and do the same as that. They won't have done whatever they did for a bad reason. They would have done it for a good reason. If you source it from the ECU you might introduce some nasty noise into the ECU (from the valve square waving on and off) or you might draw more current than it can handle on that line or any number of other foreseeable (or not foreseeable) possible bad things.

Follow the factory's lead, avoid those possible problems.

  • 5 months later...
B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

Just another question does the MAC solenoid have an outputing voltage or its and inputing voltage. Im asking this because if i sourced the 12V IGN source from the factory solenoid. Where does the second wire go analog/ digital input or ???

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The solenoid doesn't care how it is switched. You could either give it permanent 12V on one side and switch it on the earth side, or give it permanent earth on one side and switch 12V onto it from the other.

BUUUUUT...... What really matters is how the ECU wants to switch it. And from what your first post says (assuming you're correct), the ECU will switch the earth side of the solenoid to earth. So the second wire from the MAC valve just connects to the boost control pin on the ECU.

B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

ok i wasnt understanding how it was completing the circuit without the ground. So its connected by 12v then the second wire goes to the ecu boost controll pin. How is the ECU controlling the solenoid, is it applying varied voltage to the solenoid.

B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

nah this is a different case i have stock wiring. Went to a local meet and was told the same to use stock wiring where the old one was located so thats good if said more than once. Just didnt want to start another thread. Not sure if using thw stock will support the boost by gear functions but for now im happy will just wire it on the stock solenoid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Duncan · Posted

      Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...