Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys new to the forum..

I am quite mechanically minded and have fitted an rb25det into a gu patrol.

I am running a stock as a rock rb25det skyline engine. Only difference is using the patrol top mount intercooler.

Everything seems to be running really well, doesn't overheat, boosts fine, runs 7 pound and everything seems responsive. BUT after a very short drive the turbo starts to glow and not under heavy load. And when I do heavy load it the turbo starts to get a brighter glow.. What do I do???.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425529-my-rb25det-turbo-glowing-help/
Share on other sites

There is no restriction full 3 inch straight through exhaust, has a 3 and a half inch brand new high flow cat literally done less than an hour running on.

Waste gate joins to the intake pipe as per standard rb25det.

And the top mount intercooler sealed with no leaks with no restrictions

hows your fuel economy? is unburnt fuel / still burning fuel going through the turbo? that motor will be working hard lugging around a fat patrol

Edited by StevenCJR31

Well couldn't tell you about economy as haven't run it long enough coz I don't wanna blow it..

I'm not 100% if there's unburnt fuel, normally there would be some smoke? Yes? But there is none, it does get some cracklling up when coming down gears.

A lot of people have done the conversion and had no problem with it carrying the wait.. Figured this was a problem someone might have had an issue with in a skyline.

Well couldn't tell you about economy as haven't run it long enough coz I don't wanna blow it..

I'm not 100% if there's unburnt fuel, normally there would be some smoke? Yes? But there is none, it does get some cracklling up when coming down gears.

A lot of people have done the conversion and had no problem with it carrying the wait.. Figured this was a problem someone might have had an issue with in a skyline.

if there was any smoke it MAY be burnt up in the cat ? for the turbo to glow like that there must be fuel burning in it, if that is the case then the stock turbo wont live a long life, from what ive read on here there hasnt been a lot of glowing turbo problem skylines~one or two with warped exhaust manifolds tho! would it be feasable for you to try a front mount ic to eleminate any possible restriction?

Yea can't fit a front mount without removing ac, and by glowing I mean turbo is red hot glowing... It shouldn't get that red from not boosting for heavy periods... In my opinion but I haven't worked With these motors before

Have you checked your timing? Could be that it is heaps retarded and blowing out the burning fuel through the turbo

Checked the timing and set it at 15 btdc With timing gun, and that turbo gets way to red hot.. If the crank was out would the car still run perfect but overfuel/ under fuel??

Sounds like It may be running lean, can be caused by a few things. For example when I bought my curent engine, there was a mix up with the plenums put on it and I got an NA one with NA injectors in it. Surprisingly the Motor still ran smooth (was surprised it ran at all) so took me ages to find what my lack of power was caused by. But anyway that caused my turbo to glow red with just moderate load. So morral to the story, check everything related to the fuelling system.

P.S. surprisingly I don't have 6 cracked pistons from the running lean from the balls injectors :)

Running lean it will generally run well (you make more power lean than rich, to a point). But it runs hot. I'd say that the fuel pump may be to blame, or possibly a blocked fuel filter.

Pull out the spark plugs. That will give you an idea on whether it's running lean

Has brand new vl turbo fuel pump, brand new fuel filter.. Everything runs really well when it's timed about 25btdc, but the turbo glows just not as quick.. Someone said it may be the reg letting through too much fuel? That's why I thought increasing the timing is helping it burn off but still not enough to keep the turbo cool. Thinking maybe aftermarket fuel reg. but I have a mate bringing a wide band over tomorrow before I buy anything so il know for sure..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...