Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nitto stroker kit

nitto oil pump

nitto head gasket

rrr racing block

peterson dry sump

head package through crd, dirt garage or equivalent.

ross or ati balancer

arp studs throughout

adjustable cam gears

hks t51r turbo

id2000 injectors

larger fuel rail

or

RIPS engine package

or, let us know your goals and budget.

will help decide what to do.

Ive so far purchased cp forged pistons,spool rods,acl bearings,arp studs all round,jun oil pump, just need ideas on cam duration/lift and valve springs also what turbo to run with to get the most out the 26.

all good.

id love to be able to afford their gear too.

maybe one day.

maybe not.

theres a thread currently discussing pretty much this.

cant remember exactly where, bit some were saying you can get a racepace engine(yours rebuilt by them)for 10k incl parts and labour.

may be worth freighting it?

do you need turbo setup?

do you need fuel system?

now we know a rough budget, what do you want/need and what power goals are you aiming for?

Ive so far purchased cp forged pistons,spool rods,acl bearings,arp studs all round,jun oil pump, just need ideas on cam duration/lift and valve springs also what turbo to run with to get the most out the 26.

twins or single?

Be interested in looking into that thread if you happen to come across it.

Im hoping to get enough help through this thread from past experience builds so i know which direction on parts selection i should take on getting good power from a budget.

Am looking at getting rid of the twins and going single so turbo choice also would help.

  • 2 weeks later...

nitto stroker kit

nitto oil pump

nitto head gasket

rrr racing block

peterson dry sump

head package through crd, dirt garage or equivalent.

ross or ati balancer

arp studs throughout

adjustable cam gears

hks t51r turbo

id2000 injectors

larger fuel rail

or

RIPS engine package

or, let us know your goals and budget.

will help decide what to do.

Jesus creepers Luke! RRR block itself is rare as hens teeth yet alone $10k+ to procure .

be better off just getting N1 block from Just Jap cost like 2.6K.

I was under the impression that Dan was not doing engines and ERD anymore? Health Issues Maybe from what I recall?

Dan is still building engines as a sort of private on the side setup, from what i gather, but ERD itself is no more.

Probably a lot less messing around only doing engines.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...