Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All good man, maybe next time, you need to get onto the " Midnight Garage " bandwagon lol.

In good news, I'm getting S CLUB LIPS copys made, I'm talking with Kyle @ Kmak Aero and I'm giving him my lip and we'll go from there, so if you know anyone who wants a rare as funk pussy magnet s club lip for laurel then let them know, then let me know so i can get a certain made for a certain $$.

This weekend, the " Midnight Garage " got together at my place, Oh yeah double garage mo f**ker.

We worked on Iains R34, pulled his China turbo setup off, lets just say i reckon a 2 year old baby could of gone better. Looked at my mates XR6 Turbo ute Diff, well had a listen and some sort of a guestimate of what we all think it is. Funny how a recently new highly productive car, all the parts are funking expensive as.

Then of course we had work to do on the Laurel, Thursday night i borrowed some 30mm bolt on spacers for the fronts, was up untill all hours getting measurements for clearance, full lock etc and they were by far poking to much, Friday I went to Capalaba found this guy on Ebay and picked up brand new pair of 20mm bolt on spacers for $50 bucks! Got home that night put them on the right side and then couldn't be funked and just thought i'd leave till Sunday. So on Sunday we worked on the Laurel, Will the genius of geo metrics offered to lower and camber and make it hella flush so i just got to sit back and drink beer and watch my next door neighbours cut there grass with sizzors....... f**king asians. So it begin, got the rears sorted, there sitting on the lip on inside of guard but will get them lipped and it will sit good! Moved onto fronts, played around with the camber, fixed the toe out as it was chunking through the s14 stocks and fitted the VSKFs and went low. It tucks nice, no guard work needed so f**k yeah.

The laurel had a hesitation while under full thottle, so we got together in a group and pulled each other off while gracefully giving our opinions, Ben aka my muscles said its your AFM, we all thought fueling problem, anyway we pulled Iains AFM off his neo and put it in and it ran alot better. Will and i drove up to burpengary picked up an AFM, got back plugged it in and it now runs alot better, it also had no hose clamps on vacum lines so picked a few up and got that sorted aswell, there is a slight hesitation on full throttle but we just think thats due to it running like that for so long it probably needs a tune but im just going to wait for the overhaul when i get ecu and what not put in.

changed a fuel filter

yeah thats about it. Pretty good weekend as always working into the night finishing up at 1-2am as always, i'm picking up a 180sx cradle tuesday with r200 and half shafts so next weekend thats going in with hopefully a slight shim, its a 4.11 ratio which is alright, would love 4.3 but it'll do untill my 2 way.

my driveway is officially a flamin mongrel, my car is no longer practical but its great!

Iains old china lolshit turbo setup

IMG_0144_zps8b63b7e2.jpg

IMG_0139_zps5ae3d8e8.jpg

IMG_0125_zpsf894895b.jpg

IMG_0149_zps2a1a57ee.jpg

IMG_0153_zpsfa59ad72.jpg

IMG_0155_zpsc654a39e.jpg

Edited by skyline32sup

bought these tonight, S2 rare tail lights and garnish cause the chrome edges are boss.

rearlights_zps3b720592.jpg

i shouldn't buy things that arn't needed but i couldn't help myself and especially for the price i paid shipped from JP, should have them 4-8 weeks

yeah all i need is ECU and clutch, ill get clutch next pay check and ecu will be a drag out haha.

just couldnt say no for $300 posted in mint condition, also sam do you need S club lip or want a copy made?

I'll let you know man! still talking and sorting it out with KMAK.

Today i picked up these Laurel weathersheilds off another laurel owner, unfortunately passenger side is missing :(

IMG_0162_zpsa0f76cea.jpg

since my open diff is becoming a problem and is well hopeless lol, i picked up this 180sx cradle with r200 hoping it will line up, otherwise have r chassis halfshafts

IMG_0163_zpsd73f34ec.jpg

Sold that whole cradle for 400 bucks! I only paid 150 LOL, getting a 2 way from JDM Garage hopefully. Also found the rare grey interior and hoping to swap mine for his with some cash his way but wont know till saturday

The guy backed out unfortunately, so interior will be the last thing i do aswell as finding a pair of chrome VSKFs. Yeah i like the Maroon but it wont match the interior i'm putting it, like grey suede recaros, black defis, black nardi, purple shit etc. Just grey would look good and plus its rare as hell.

No real updates, I'm currently buffing it. Never buffed before, but its looking good just hella lazy. Should have ECU and Clutch with tax monies and be on my way to save for tune/install so keen! I'm going E85 aswell the flex fuel Caltex sells, not going to run prem anymore.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...