Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 269
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi all,

I have received all the parts i need to make another batch today, and will start taking orders. If you would like one, pls contact me with your contact details.

If you would like more info, reply here!

Impakt

Couple more questions, thought this'd be a better spot for it, share the info. and avoid clogging your PM inbox Impakt.

1. What are physical dimensions of the screen?

2. How difficult would it be, for some one with moderate skills, to solder a ribbon cable between the box and screen (say ~30cm length)?

2a. Would the above detrimentally effect the units operation?

The above comes about from the desire to mount the screen in a small space necessitating it's detachment from the box.

3. What's the feasibility of having the display all come up backwards, mirrored, so it could be placed on the dash and used as a Heads-Up-Display?

A switch to choose between Normal/Mirror would be IDEAL!

4. How would, or could, you go about dicking with the speed signal? I ask because i have an auto diff (4.3:1) in a manual car (normally 4.11:1 diff) so my speedo is out, this way i could have an accurate reading.

Good questions Oosh,

1. The physical dimensions of the screen (PCB) is 98mmx60mmx~15mm. THe actual LCD part is smaller.

2. To remotely mount the LCD is not that hard, as long as you know what you are doing. Im happy to sell a display with the LCD and case seperate, so you can mount as you wish. Its 12 wires between the LCD and PCB, so a decent ribbon cable should do the trick. I would recommend you letting me know if you want to remote mount the LCD, that way i wont solder it on in the first place (and create extra work for you).

2a. Won't affect operation at all, just shield the ribbon cable to reduce noise.

3. A super bright VFD or LED module could be used for HUD. LCD will never be bright enough to be used as a HUD.

4. Not possible without re-programming the device, which im happy to do (at a small cost). Just tell me how much you need it tweaked by, and i'll write the code to do it.

Impakt

Good questions Oosh,

snip .... /snip

Impakt

Thanks for your answers, if you COULD leave my LCD unattached, i think i will give this a go but please include the wires you would use just in case i decide to go back to stock.

As for speed, it'd need to be altered by a factor of 0.95, i.e. display 95kmh when it's detecting it as 100kmh.

Some further questions:

1. Just how small a fee? :thumbsup:

2. Could i keep the original speed variable? i.e. have a Speed1 and Speed2 var.

3. Will either option (modified or 2 vars) effect compatibility with any of the softwares esp. data loggers?

Cheers.

Found this case at Prime Electronics here in Bridbane.

 

Did a quick transplant and used some smaller push buttons. Guess I just can't help dicking around with things...

 

6789pic_0008-med.JPG

6789pic_0009-med.JPG

is that a laptop hard drive caddy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...