Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just sold my Skyline one month ago and the owner has been away working and when he tried starting it the car it started than died. It wouldn't start at all after woulds and he flattened the battery twice trying to get it going. He got the vehicle towed to a mechanics and they have told him the car has no compression??? WTF could this be caused from washing the bores? Car ran fine and never blew smoke apart from being too rich at start up and idle it had no other issues

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426316-car-sat-for-a-month-wont-start/
Share on other sites

He got the vehicle towed to a mechanics and they have told him the car has no compression??? WTF could this be caused from washing the bores?

Bore wash increases wear to the bore so yes a loss of compression can happen

Sounds like the "Mechanic" doesn't know shit from sugar or he's trying one on.

Buyer drives it home, parks it, doesn't do anything else, a month later tries to start it to no avail.

- Replace Plugs ($25) n Battery ($150) with new. Try start it.

If indeed the compression is low (no compression - pfffft) it was farked before sold.

IMHO anyway.

Sounds like the "Mechanic" doesn't know shit from sugar or he's trying one on.

Buyer drives it home, parks it, doesn't do anything else, a month later tries to start it to no avail.

- Replace Plugs ($25) n Battery ($150) with new. Try start it.

If indeed the compression is low (no compression - pfffft) it was farked before sold.

IMHO anyway.

The mechanic doesn't know shit? but yet yet your giving him advice to spend 175$ on parts which may only turn out to be a further kick in the guts

Is this an RB20 or 25 at all? Sounds like the hydraulic lifters may have bled down due to sitting for too long. Just keep cranking, for no more than about 20secs at a time without letting the starter cool.

This is a easy

While he was away couple of hes pissed mates thought it was a great idea to take the skyline for a rap to Maccas to get a $2 cheeseburger or two

Nek Minit

Pushing it back where they got it from

  • Like 1

Are you certain the guy was actually away working? Maybe he is lying and just raped the car for a month and then it died. Either way, it's got nothing to do with you. As long as it was running when he drove away then anything that happens after that is his problem.

  • Like 1

Are you certain the guy was actually away working? Maybe he is lying and just raped the car for a month and then it died. Either way, it's got nothing to do with you. As long as it was running when he drove away then anything that happens after that is his problem.

Well said.

Simply put Yes I am. I believe the money is not wasted spent on these items. Not by the seller but by the buyer.

Cheaper option - clean existing plugs, swap in a battery from a mate and crank away....

-> Skyline works fine, not driven for a month, no compression - Some one is lying !!

If I didn't drive my GTR for a month. And then killed the battery twice trying to start it then I would do exactly what I advised.

My plugs will be fouled and my battery is likely also cactus. My compression would be 165-170 not 0psi

The mechanic doesn't know shit? but yet yet your giving him advice to spend 175$ on parts which may only turn out to be a further kick in the guts

  • Like 1

Maybe check the compression yourself to make sure, I can remember a similar thing with an r31 my bro owned, it ended up being a cracked cylinder head....

Edited by AngryRBGTX

Are you certain the guy was actually away working? Maybe he is lying and just raped the car for a month and then it died. Either way, it's got nothing to do with you. As long as it was running when he drove away then anything that happens after that is his problem.

so much this.

no compression?

so, not 1 cylinder has an ounce of pressure?

I find it very hard to believe.

maybe no fuel pressure?

in which case, fuel pump.

and it wouldn't start.

do the usual.

test fuel, test spark, actual comp test(with vid results), and go from there

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...