Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trivial to get it engineered. The Engineer is just going to want you to make sure that the engine is completely stock - turbos, emissions control, ECU and that you fit the brakes that come from the donor car (which really means either GTR brakes or R33 brakes).

I'm sure you can get more serious mods through with an Engineer, but here in SA I got the RB25DET through Regency as a transplant just by making sure the car was 100% roadworthy, no Engineer required.

No, it will not be cheaper than building the RB20. Yes it will be better. But a Neo would probably be a better choice again. Cheaper to buy, same power potential, what's not to like?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426474-r32-gtst/#findComment-6879440
Share on other sites

Totally depends on the state in which you come from.

Every state has its own laws so as such, you'll need to research and find out what is the best approach for the governing law, as different things are OK in some places where others are not. This dictates how viable each path is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426474-r32-gtst/#findComment-6879468
Share on other sites

Depends on where you live. Cut holes for pipes and you'll get raped in some states.

But the original question was about engineering. You can get pretty much anything engineered (within some sensible limits) - it's just a matter of how much money you are able to throw at the engineering and the work required to make the Engineer happy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426474-r32-gtst/#findComment-6879585
Share on other sites

Im in n.s.w. i thought about the neo as well,maybe it would be a better option i suppose as it is a newer motor than a r32 rb26.i will do some research and see what im in for.i suppose the hardest thing is the electrics are they not ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426474-r32-gtst/#findComment-6880915
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...