Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so even though this is a fairly straight forward job. I'll post a how to any way. This is how you install a nismo fuel pump.

Before you do anything please make sure your battery is disconnected your fuel lid open and you have at the most a quarter tank of fuel.

Your pump access is located on the rear right side under your parcel shelf in the boot. It is covered by a panel with screws

post-101240-1376904185037_thumb.jpg

Undo screws disconnect all sensor clips and make sure you have plenty of rags handy or a oil tray to collect fuel from fuel lines.

post-101240-13769041940263_thumb.jpg

To get the black cap off use a plastic screwdriver and a rubber mallet to turn it anti clockwise. Use 5/10 force. Make sure you make a rough mark as to where the black cap started. There is an arrow on the white plastic that shows where the mark needs to be tightened to

Remove cap. Pry open plastic cover and remove rubber lining. Remove hose connections underneath cover

To remove fuel pump. Gently pull up. It is located just behind right rear passenger seat against the wall. It is not bolted on. It uses a hook latch system

Here is a comparison. The stock pump on the right is actually closer to the camera making it appear larger but it is in fact tiny compared to the Nismo.

post-101240-13769042081709_thumb.jpg

The Nismo bracket clicks into the existing plastic housing. Feed the filter element in first making sure it makes its way lower and deeper into the fuel tank.

It will take you a few tries to mount the Nismo. Make sure it has clicked into the plastic bracket and that you haven't just fit it in between the bracket and the wall of the car. The pump should sit straight and not move.

Connect all hoses and mountings. Change fuel filter. Re attach battery. Place car on On then start vehicle.

post-101240-13769044297146_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

After driving along all day you can just hear the pleasant whirring of the Nismo pump. It is in no way loud or audible inside the cabin. Highly recommended. Fuel pump and filter was done at 81000kms

Um good question. At this level of modifying i didn't feel the need to. The pump itself was a sizeable upgrade to stock. You can do it if you want to im sure you would get a higher voltage/efficiency.

Um good question. At this level of modifying i didn't feel the need to. The pump itself was a sizeable upgrade to stock. You can do it if you want to im sure you would get a higher voltage/efficiency.

Makes sense. Thinking about doing similar mods - currently in planning phase :)

Keep 'em coming.

  • Like 1

I believe the Nismo pump is designed to run with the lower voltage that the pump speed controller supplies them with. The issue with aftermarket pumps like Bosch and Walbro is they are designed to work at 14v and they struggle with lower voltage.

So Yeh, shouldn't need to rewire for the Nismo.

  • Like 2

Yeah mine has a mind of its own. After the pump, injector, fuel filter and spark replacement my car seems to be running better and it does feel like it pulls a bit better. But it's ducking fuel like no tomorrow. I'm desperately in need of a tune.

Nice build mate. Red is the fastest colour besides blue ;) That 200kw mark the neo will S$%T it in. My 33 just had the turbo hi flowed and a 355kw AEM fuel pump put in. On stock ECU, Injectors, with 3 inch exhaust and 10psi made 195kw @ the wheels :) and 98BP ultimate fuel :P Oh and she has 200,000km so with those mods your looking at my mate had a similar in his GTT and made 235ish :)

Keep up the good work.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...