Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , as some know I'm interested in using top feed EV14 injectors in an R33 spec RB25DET and if at all possible using an OE R34 GTt fuel rail .

I have a couple of pics of Neo GTt rails but one has me a bit confused . The first shows the FPR up the front where the secont one has it mounted to a different separate section I've not seen before . It's a little hard to see but I think the user mounted one of those barb adapters in the usual FPR mount and has it now on the other bit . Can anyone used to playing with GTt rails see whats going on ? Also are all Neo fuel rails the same on Skylines and Stageas ?

Cheers Adrian .

post-9594-0-65372100-1370757979_thumb.png

post-9594-0-57053400-1370758063_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426682-confusing-r34gtt-fuel-rail-pics/
Share on other sites

Now really confused . I was looking for more pics and came across this thread which just happens to have pics of a Neo 25 in the FPR area .

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/329467-neo-rb25-bogs-then-dies-im-about-shoot-myself.html

Am I looking at two FPRs because the two gadgets that look like them both have what looks like vacuum lines , do Neos have two rail outlets and regs to avoid boiling issues ?

Cheers A .

There is only one FPR, the other one is a dampener I am fairly sure. No idea why they have vac lines going to the dampeners though. The VQ25det runs a very similar setup as the 34 neo's, other than being twin rails.

  • 3 weeks later...

KSsiD3m.png

Here is a screenshot from Nissan FAST of an RB25 NEO fuel rail setup, sorry for the shitty text but i was on a laptop and had to use the trackpad, but hey it works. I suspect i have a problem with my fuel rail as the hose that links the barb on the rear of the rail is not there to link it to the barb in the middle of the rail, will provide pictures tomorrow night.

On my Neo I don't think I have either of the fuel dampers at all? The fuel regulator is there but I cannot see any dampers. Would I still be fine to leave the dampers out, I don't think that aftermarket fuel rails have dampers so I'm thinking I should be fine to use it? For reference I am running a Walbro 400lph running straight off the battery.

Also in the second picture you can see the fuel line comes straight off the barb at the rear of the rail and runs down through the plenum runners. Shouldn't this run to the front of the rail and connect up :/ slightly confused about it all. Might have to take the top of the plenum off and have a look, don't really want to though.

post-84937-13723963325045_thumb.jpgpost-84937-13723963550126_thumb.jpg

I managed to buy a Neo Turbo fuel rail yesterday so when I get SKs spare manifold and the injectors and colars I can make some progress .

I'm told R34 era Stagea engines and bits are more common here than R34 GTt parts which is handy .

Slightly OT but someone at JJ was telling me that Neo's are different to earlier RB25s in the cam change hydraulics , if someone was to plonk a Neo head on an earlier RB25 block are mods needed aside from pistons and comp ratios ? Only reason I ask is because if I ever had to rebuild my engine I'd consider using the later rods pistons and the Neo top end and inlet manifold - Neo wearing std engine number basically .

Cheers A .

  • 4 weeks later...

On my Neo I don't think I have either of the fuel dampers at all? The fuel regulator is there but I cannot see any dampers. Would I still be fine to leave the dampers out, I don't think that aftermarket fuel rails have dampers so I'm thinking I should be fine to use it? For reference I am running a Walbro 400lph running straight off the battery.

Also in the second picture you can see the fuel line comes straight off the barb at the rear of the rail and runs down through the plenum runners. Shouldn't this run to the front of the rail and connect up :/ slightly confused about it all. Might have to take the top of the plenum off and have a look, don't really want to though.

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk 21372396331.451074.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk 21372396355.833979.jpg

Okay i managed to get my car to a point where i tried to start it. I had the fuel feed attatched to the barb underneath the regulator in the first picture, and the return coming off the barb at the rear of the fuel rail as seen in the second pic. The car would crank fine but refused to start, it ran on start ya bastard but would die as soon as i stopped spraying. Fuel pump was audibly priming and i was getting spark no worries, just didnt even sound like it was trying to start.

So i swapped the fuel lines around (feed to rear of rail, return to the front barb under the regulator) and it now starts and idles fine. Have i got the fuel lines on backwards? I really feel that i have but im not 100% sure, and would it even run if i did have them backwards? Or would the fuel pressure just be as much as the Walbro 400l/ph pump could generate?

Any help/feedback would be appreciated. Will get a pic tomorrow night.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...