Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Welded up the sump but it distorted to much so I made up another one without the extra extension at the back.

Made a new pick up, still need to make a bracket back to the girdle and modified the windage tray.

Had the ETS-pro from Full Race turn up, finding this unit was the trigger for starting the whole project.

IMGP2611_resize_zpsfebed872.jpg

IMGP2612_resize_zps292419bb.jpg

IMGP2616_resize_zps9ddd6387.jpg

IMGP2617_resize_zps8cd3726a.jpg

IMGP2618_resize_zpse8c9b3cf.jpg

IMGP2619_resize_zpsc5c58d8d.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Few more things done, rebuilt the clutches in the diff. The bearings and back lash was fine so brought the nismo 3843S-R521 kit but should have brought the 3843S-R520 kit.

The R521 kit came with 4 spring plates, 2 spring discs 4 friction discs and 2 friction plates, this made about 130ft/lb brake away.

IMGP2591_resize_zps76a24937.jpg

I used 2 spring plates, 2 spring discs, 4 friction plates and 4 friction discs, this would be the same as the R520 kit.

IMGP2598_resize_zps5f770ead.jpg

The brake away torque to start with was 25 ft/lb and ended up with 69 ft/lb. Gave the pressure rings and the casing a polish with some fine sand paper and filed the

sharp edges, this helped the pressure ring slide smoothly.

Pressure ring before polishing.

IMGP2603_resize_zps321a55c4.jpg

After

IMGP2606_resize_zps52a53008.jpg

Polishing the casing where the ears run.

IMGP2605_resize_zpsb6eecffc.jpg

Made some plates to bolt to the flanges for testing and removing the stubs.

IMGP2613_resize_zps10438bea.jpg

IMGP2581_resize_zpsd1a15e0b.jpg

IMGP2577_resize_zps157d6425.jpg

Put back together with a quick coat of paint.

IMGP2607_resize_zps52a0e567.jpg

Also started to de-burred the block and modified a corner on the fuel tank to give the exhaust more clearance.

IMGP2621_resize_zps303279a0.jpg

  • Like 1

Few more things done, rebuilt the clutches in the diff. The bearings and back lash was fine so brought the nismo 3843S-R521 kit but should have brought the 3843S-R520 kit.

The R521 kit came with 4 spring plates, 2 spring discs 4 friction discs and 2 friction plates, this made about 130ft/lb brake away.

IMGP2591_resize_zps76a24937.jpg

I used 2 spring plates, 2 spring discs, 4 friction plates and 4 friction discs, this would be the same as the R520 kit

Just to confirm, this is an r33 GTR r200?

I've been looking for the part number for the nismo rebuild/upgrade for my r32 GTR.

Who did you source the diff parts from?

Cheers

Justin

Hi Justin yes this is out of GTR R33, I would go the 3843S-RS520 kit

This should help for the part numbers. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/repair04.pdf

I brought the kit form rhd japan http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-r200-mechanical-lsd-disc-kit-rs521.html

Negun also have rebuild kits. http://www.nengun.com/nismo/lsd-repair-parts

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...