Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've decided to wise fully invest my tax return. So far I've got my Cobb and down pipes sorted but now looking for a midpipe. so a few Q for you guys,

Anyone running a full cat less system?

Have looked around for catted midpipes but not much out there. So any recommendations?

Any tips would be sweet .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426827-catted-midpipe-options/
Share on other sites

I was thinking about going full catless with downpipes as well but I don't think that would be too wise

Yer why's that? Apart form the defect reason is there something i dont know? I have ran cattless set ups in other car in the past and found it worked well apart from extra carbon build up on the back of the car.

  • Like 1

The carbon build up and also I reckon it would be loud as f*** and draw attention and get me defected especially being a full titanium set up I'm looking at getting the Amuse r1 Titan 90spec catback

There is no carbon buildup with e85... ;)

I would be finding a local fabricator who specialises in custom stainless performance exhausts, it's just a pipe after all. Make sure there are flex joints in it if there are no others in the system. The merge is the critical part, you don't want a 90 degree merge, you want it as tight and smooth as possible. If they don't purge the inside with argon, get inside there with a die grinder and clean the welds up before fitting.

If you are relying on a pair of race cats to quieten your exhaust you have problems. Large mufflers are what drop decibels noticeably, and most Ti systems lack decent mufflers because they have a weight penalty.

i have the cobb catted midpipe with catless downpipes and a highflow muffler

on e85 there is no black smoke natch and that is what i daily drive on

but on 98 ron i still get ALOT of carbon blow out - only times i run 98 is on interstate trips, and sitting on the hwy for hours builds up alot of carbon that when i do overtake it leaves a big cloud of smoke behind

cobb released some new idc tables, which Martin did try for me but it didn't work. we may need to have another go at it next time i do a tassie or interstate trip

if i was daily driving on 98 i'd have to switch back to oem downpipes with cats, as the carbon clean up every wash would be annoying, not to mention getting dobbed in to epa, or stung at one of those road side epa checks

cliffs - only start removing cats if you're on e85

if i was daily driving on 98 i'd have to switch back to oem downpipes with cats, as the carbon clean up every wash would be annoying, not to mention getting dobbed in to epa, or stung at one of those road side epa checks

cliffs - only start removing cats if you're on e85

Thanks for the advice....I was considering going down that path myself.

Including shipping and duty that midpipe will cost nearly 3 grand shipped, and it's not even titanium. GTR tax at work, obviously.

I could make a better quality midpipe with more flow for 1/3 the price. Get some local quotes first...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...