Angryrb's R33 Street Sweeper

[Ben C34]

And not that it's critical, but I would have got the tapped section of the vct feed welded to give more thread engagement. You are only relying on a few threads without the extra weld.

[AngryRB]

I can use some loctite on that fitting and maybe get it welded on the outside when it goes to get the dump fabricated... but yeah they should of gone the extra mile as it was at the shop for 2months but i'll work with whats there now i guess.

[AngryRB]

Dropped the head at the fabricator, and now much happier with it, guys is a legend !! love the work...

My old man said it would be better if the face was a bit rougher for sealing ( hes a fitter and turner) but pretty sure it will seal with some copper spray and the clamping pressure of the ARP's.. Hoping to bolt this down tomorrow and then the manifolds but happy to take it slow and do it right first time..

Both engine builder and fabricator said not to take too much off the head cause will run into problems with tuning it if its too high in comp so taking there advice, should be around 9.5 to 1 i think which should be all good ... 6weeks wait for the dump and cooler piping fabrication at this point, must be a good business to be in, hoping to have it done before xmas fingers crossed...

Edited October 9, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Have read the oil control guide thread, but not happy with blocking the rear so what i have is 2 times 1.5 tomei restrictors, a 1.3 and a blocker...

My thoughts are to use whatever stock neo's run as many have run unopened street neo's without issues, but its unclear what stock size is, its either 1.3 or 1.5 going of the tomei oil restictor info from nengun, so at this point its either use 2 of the 1.5's or 1.5 and 1.3 at the rear which is not much difference, so anyone want to add input feel free but i dont wanna block the rear .. It will hopefully pump out 350kw on the dyno and then daily ill use 1bar whatever that puts out so its reliable while i build up a forged bottom end over time...

Edited October 9, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Washed the head today as it had lots of aluminium shavings inside from the gallery welding and shave job, must of washed it over 10 times, i used 5L of diesel to flush the crap out reusing it and discarding the shavings each time, then several blasts of compressed air... reassembled it today but not following the 15deg's it says in the engine manual as that sat the cams at an impossible position where the cam bolts couldn't even reach the holes.. weird

Then finally got round to cleaning the block

hit in the 2 1.5 tomei restrictors and cleaned the head stud holes so ready to bolt head down now

so next on the agenda

- bolt head down, use copper spray on gasket

- Knock sensors drilled tapped, installed

- 2 tensioners drilled, tapped and installed

Edited October 11, 2015 by AngryRB

[iruvyouskyrine]

You can put the cams in whatever position you want and then just use a 27mm spanner just forward of the first lobe to turn the cams to wherever they need to be for installation.

Edited October 11, 2015 by iruvyouskyrine

[AngryRB]

yeah i had to cause the bolts wouldnt stretch when following the engine manual, i just went very slow and even following torque sequence and specs, 12nm seems pretty soft but thats what it says... looks all good now look forward to your results with the ss2

[AngryRB]

Had many attempts bolting the head down, it was continually dripping from the oil drains, then after bolting it down i noticed one washer was missing, worst feeling...

So will try and source a camera to look into the springs and pull the welsh plugs off and look in there two, this is how it looks so far, plus put on water pump and factory thermostat and oil cooler thingy...

Edited October 18, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Some progress being made, got the knock sensors in although it appeared the RB30 block already had some spots but are lower than the RB25 locations so decided to copy the RB25 spots and drill and tap them, hope thats right..

Drilled the top tensioner and put the stud in with loctite, then the lower one was shifted over to the right, also put the a/c bracket on and the power steering one will have be ground level to fit the block properly next plus the belt on and crank pulley put on.. then is exhaust manifold and intake manifold to bolt on etc.. lots of small jobs and will need to pull the RB25 out with box on soon...

Just a pick before the knock sensors got drilled, will put more pics on as i go, and the RB25 whats left of the front end... nothing exciting

Edited October 29, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Some amateur grinding and porting, looks a bit rough but not gonna spend hours on it...

hmm, getting closer..

Was wondering if i should use the RB30 or the RB25 stock crank pulley, thinking the 25 looks a better pulley and they seem the same weight..

Edited October 30, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Get out and stay out ya pissy 2.5L

lots of small fabrications happening at moment lol... more pics to come

Edited November 9, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Had a win today, used the hoist and engine leveler on a 45degree angle and flushed the head with diesel and the lost washer came out, really relieved bout that

Got a 3mm disk from my old mans work to bump the pressure

Got my Fabricator to modify the engine mounts, the guide says 15mm drivers side and 12mm passenger side, looks very standard, very nice work

Also got him to weld 3 breathers on and put longer studs on the stock manifold, a bitch of a job apparently.. but looking good now..

And some other pics of the undercarriage before i put the sump on and oiled it up well .. looks alright for the age of it, apparently had 140k's on it and it did sound pretty sweet with not blow by on idle, but we'll see...

Edited November 10, 2015 by AngryRB

[admS15]

Good to hear u found the washer. Must of been a big relief for u.

[AngryRB]

Yeah, was bit worried cause im turning the motor on the stand all the time so could of found its way back up top, but crisis is over..

[AngryRB]

Got some breather fittings on the rocker covers, got the lug shaved off the power steering bracket and fitted lower plenum half and the ex mani, tried the 1000xspurts into the stock rail and looks like they need extensions even though they looked like they should fit when compared to stock neo injector,

Waiting on my old man to finish putting new bearings into the tensioners so i can put the timing belt on

Thinking whether the engine timing can be set better than just using the cover marks for the crank and cams, maybe a dial guage to atleast check the pistons postion but not sure how to check cam marks accuracy..

Edited November 13, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

How the Faaaark does this happen?

Edited November 28, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Been so long since i've driven an RB, i got my hands on my bro's skyline for night, took these pics in the morning... came from Japan this way..

I want that rear bar or maybe just whole car will do , it had a HKS2540 on it and did flat 13 quarters all day long, while my hiflow back then could only get 13.8 so don't know why, it just hammers..

This thing looks like a GTR to me, and the gearshifts are very close and quick, and gives off a pretty angry note running SS2 but untuned

This pic not best but i was drooing over it with a beer lol..

Edited November 28, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

nothing exciting to update, but drilled the intake cam gear out to fit the adjustable intake ring that Ben sent me, received the two RB30 tensioner's and have got the timing ready to go, just need to get some conical washers and nuts to tighten them up ( can't find originals ) .... Managed to straighten the stock fuel rail and will attempt to fit that up on the weekend... seem's to be taking ages but will try to drop engine in the bay once these things are sorted..

Edited December 3, 2015 by AngryRB

[admS15]

So does that make it an adjustable vct gear now?

[AngryRB]

Yeah, its adjustable, just loosen the bolts and it will turn either way, the factory setup requires you have to take the pulley off to adjust it because bolts screw in from the back, not the front, which is shit...

apologies.. i should of taken a photo of the ring removed to show it more clearly.. but trust me its adjustable..

Many thanks to Ben for this

Edited December 3, 2015 by AngryRB