Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 24mm front and 22mm rear non-adjustable but that's cause I bought them for a steal at $150 for the pair. The car does have a bit more roll than I'd really like but is really very predictable when drifting on track at fairly high speeds (3rd gear 100+km)

I have 24mm front and 22mm rear non-adjustable but that's cause I bought them for a steal at $150 for the pair. The car does have a bit more roll than I'd really like but is really very predictable when drifting on track at fairly high speeds (3rd gear 100+km)

Good to get more feedback, but i guess its not just the bars its the whole setup that needs to work together :)

Massive amounts of info here!

My thought process is:

1. Tein work pretty closely with Nissan so therefore my springs are matched nicely

2. Whiteline would test their products before releasing them and therefore HD front should match up to HD rear?

With the adjustable ones, do they set themselves looser or tighter than fixed? ie. does the second mount point go harder or softer than the equivalent fixed bar?

But how do they compare to a fixed bar?

From what you guys are saying, combined with checking out the specs on the site, I'm thinking I might go BNF24Z (Front, HD, 24mm, 4 point adjustable) and BNR11XZ (Rear, XHD, 22mm, 2 point adjustable).

No probs. They compare exactly the same as the fixed bars. The only difference is you have the flexibility to adjust if required. The only reason someone wouldn't get adjustable is if they didn't want to spend the extra. But to me, if your talking $50-60 a bar difference, just get adjustable and know that you can swap it around if required. I've never adjusted mine after installation, but one day it might be fun to try out and see what different settings do.

  • Like 1

Errr man, that is a bit big.... What you measuring boi? :P

I would like to see how such big bars go anywhere near the body mounting locations!!

FWIW, it pays to remember that bar stiffness goes up with the 4th power of diameter. On that basis a 33mm bar is more than twice as stiff as a 27mm bar, and a 27 is already more than twice as stiff as a 22. Ergo, a 33 would be simply massive stiffness on a road car. Massive.

Check measurement with proper vernier required.

hrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmm well i used a ruler and then measuring tape...still got the same measurements. maybe i need to go back to primary school? totally fine with someone coming to check them out for me too =)

hrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmm well i used a ruler and then measuring tape...still got the same measurements. maybe i need to go back to primary school? totally fine with someone coming to check them out for me too =)

Lolololol..... All good, but i think your "tools" are a bit primitive :P

Good to get more feedback, but i guess its not just the bars its the whole setup that needs to work together :)

Good point my setup is as follows:

BC BR Coilovers 8kg F 6kg R (whatever the standard spring rates are believe that is correct)

Whiteline swaybars as before (24mm F 22mm R)

I also have lock collars for rear subframe (whether that makes a difference)

Adjustable arms all over and locked out my hicas

Good point my setup is as follows:

BC BR Coilovers 8kg F 6kg R (whatever the standard spring rates are believe that is correct)

Whiteline swaybars as before (24mm F 22mm R)

I also have lock collars for rear subframe (whether that makes a difference)

Adjustable arms all over and locked out my hicas

Similar setup to mine but i have the 27mm and 24mm bars...

  • 1 year later...

What about 24 at the front and an adjustable 24 mm at the rear?

Per my first reply in this thread I have 24mm adjustables front and rear on an R32. So, not an R34, and therefore possibly a bit different. Nevertheless, having recently replaced all the other suspension components on my car (the new springs being a bit stiffer than the old ones) the adjustables are set the same as before (hard at front, soft at rear) my car has a definite tail happy characteristic mid corner. I take that to mean that what I posted in my first reply is even more valid than before - which is that your mileage may vary. What result you get really does depend on everything else in the car. R34s seem to require a little more bar at the front. So if it were me thinking about fitting 24s front and rear on a 34, I would still only do so with adjustables both ends so that I can add stiffness at the front as well as remove it at the rear.

If I were running stiff coilovers on a 34, I think I wouldn't go further than 24F22R (adjustable). If I were running Kings or similar springs that are not much firmer than stock, then I might prefer 27F24R (both adjustable still).

I don't see the value in saving a few $ on buying a fixed bar if there is an adjustable bar available. If you buy the fixed, you have to live with the result. You'll never know if it could have been just a bit nicer if you'd been able to adjust it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...