Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My cold oil pressure is probably 130-140 cold at idle and takes about 15-20 minutes to get down to 80 psi but as soon as to rev it its 100 again and i have troube with it pushing oil out 

Know i have drilled the head oil drains out to  9.5 -10mm from the 8 thay are as it ses to do to match the gasked i have got a 1mm restrictor in the block one blocked of a 1.2 vvt external oil feed the oil hole in the back of the head 20mm going in to the turbo drain line that is 20mm stock rb25 cam covers with -8 breathers in to a open catch can under the car i have a n1 spline drive oil pump from spool imports a asr race sump think its a 8.5 liters if this helps iam just over it thanks sorry for not putting full info

  • 3 months later...

Sorry for bumping an old thread

pet vl, did you find a cause for your high oil pressure? I have a similar setup in my 25/30 but with a 25det pump and on the dyno I am seeing 8.1bar of oil pressure through a run. Oil temp is 82. I am using 10w60 edge

 

  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎3‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 3:12 PM, Looney_Head said:

 I have a similar setup in my 25/30 but with a 25det pump and on the dyno I am seeing 8.1bar of oil pressure through a run. Oil temp is 82. I am using 10w60 edge

 

I have three questions for this

Is the oil pump bone stock ie. original springs, no shims?

Are you relying on the OEM gauge in the dash for "accurate" pressure indication?

Have you tried a different grade of oil as per Bob's comment?

On ‎19‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 11:22 AM, Dale FZ1 said:

I have three questions for this

Is the oil pump bone stock ie. original springs, no shims? Yes bone stock brand bew RB25DET oil pump

Are you relying on the OEM gauge in the dash for "accurate" pressure indication? i have a GM 130psi oil pressure sensor feeding my Vipec ECU, will be getting a mechanical gauge to confirm the readings

Have you tried a different grade of oil as per Bob's comment? not yet, i haven't touched the car since it came off the dyno.will look into a 5w30/10w30

Hi Dale,

please see my answers underlined.

Double check the input scaling of that sensor in the relevant ANV table, such that the ECU is correctly interpreting the voltage input.  If you had short term access to a known/good mechanical gauge it might make for good cross checking.

After that it would be well worth changing the oil grade, and do a back to back comparison for changes.

On 3/21/2018 at 7:20 PM, Dale FZ1 said:

Double check the input scaling of that sensor in the relevant ANV table, such that the ECU is correctly interpreting the voltage input.  If you had short term access to a known/good mechanical gauge it might make for good cross checking.

After that it would be well worth changing the oil grade, and do a back to back comparison for changes.

thanks Dale. the sensor is the same type that i have on my fuel pressure which from injector pulses is accurate for what we calculated the engine needed.

that is the plan at the moment, try a mechanical gauge, then different oil, then if that doesn't work the sump will have to come off and see if the bypass valve is the issue.

i see other people had issues with Edge 10w60 on their RB30's (cubes) so hopefully it turns out being as simple as the wrong oil

  • Like 1
  • 5 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/12/2023 at 8:03 PM, DriftSpark said:

What happened in the end? @Looney_Head

Hi,

i ended up pulling the pump off and porting out the oil by-pass and going to a 5w/30 oil. that has fixed it. i now see 100~PSI peak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...