Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my last boost controller started failing so me and my tuner decided to mod the stock actuator to make it adj.

my target psi is 14psi and using the stock actuator it held at 11psi.

my question is how much shorter/ longer do i need to adj it to reach my target psi. i have it currently set at 1 cm shorter than the stock length.

mods are as follows

45v4 turbo,

3 inch turbo back exhaust

cam gears

blitz fmic

nistune ecu

engine is a RB20DET.

last power out put was 165rwkw with boost topping at 16 psi by 4000rpm and dropping to 12 psi by 7500rpm.

regards

brentton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427553-setting-up-adj-actuator/
Share on other sites

If you add more preload it will make the boost curve worse, like 20psi dropping to 14. Adjusting the preload won't change the point at which the diaphragm in the actuator operates.

Thats the opposite of my understanding. The gate operation is a fight between the spring and diaphram. Increasing preload has the effect of increasing the force developed by the spring. The force that the diaphram produces depends on the boost. So if the spring force goes up, you need more boost to open the gate.

Spring force isn't adjustable, it is a set force/mm.

If you decrease the length of the actuator arm you are forcing the spring to close more before the flap opens. It works, but not as well as replacing the spring with a stiffer one, and you could reach a point where the flap doesn't open enough to bleed boost off in the top end. (boost spike)

Try it out, just make sure you have a good gauge, I have seen too many that read 3-5psi out.

I would be hitting up Hypergear for a 14psi actuator. Install and forget.

From Hypergears thread, page 397

If you over pre-load you will get boost spike and then taper. Try to have it hold one consistent boost pressure off the spring only.

That actually looks OK. its making 150kw @ 4000 rpm which isnt THAT bad for a 200k+ auto. Have a fiddle with preload and just check VCT as said.

pg 398

Its extremely important remembering to preload the actuator as the tuner's tuning. keep on preloading if are seeing boost tapering off before the desired level. It might be 5mms or could be 15mms, the more you load it the higher up top boost level it will hold, more boost makes more power.

Superben, that quote from page 398 is to be read as "adding preload stops the boost tapering off at the top end".

The corollary of that, and part of the page 397 quote is that it also tends to cause a spike as the boost comes on, which is not always (or even often) desirable.

run a Turbosmart or Kando actuator they have springs inside that can be easily changed and the boost dropping of problem nearly disappears. the only reason boost drops of at higher rpm is because the pressure in the stock exhaust manifold is so high the gate actually gets pushed open and is unable to close. Once open with standard actuators and high boost the actuator nearly becomes useless as at about 4500rpm the actuator is forced open and cannot shut.

Spring force isn't adjustable, it is a set force/mm.

You are saying the force produced by the spring can't be referred to as "spring force" - I disagree. Force/mm is not a sensible term, you should say either force/distance or if you're expressing it in units, use units both sides, eg. Newtons/mm. This property is known as the spring constant (or rate, or spring rate). I agree that spring constant is not adjustable.

OP - try increasing the preload a bit more, and see how it performs. If its sucks, get something else.

MMM interesting, i have been suggested to remove the ball and spring out of the boost controller and run it like that. Any one have experience with this.

If its one of those $20-30 boost controllers then removing the spring and ball makes it a very expensive bit of pipe.... :)

MMM interesting, i have been suggested to remove the ball and spring out of the boost controller and run it like that. Any one have experience with this.

You do realise the ball and spring are whats needed to "trick" the actuator into creating more boost? So removing both well render the boost controller useless and you will run wastegate pressure.

No, they have a small bleed hole in the side, so it will actually run as the stock turbo does, bleeding a little of the pressure off to raise the boost. How much boost depends on the size of the bleed hole and the actuator spring.

I would like to see what level of boost increase you would see though. I don't think the 1mm bleed hole would let out nearly enough boost pressure, compared to if the ball and spring was there to restrict flow, and increase boost.

  • 2 months later...

Hey guys sorry for bringing up an old topic. I'm having trouble with an EBC + RB20 actuator. max boost set to 1 Bar. The trouble is I can't find a good balance between response and overboosting with the EBC GAIN setting. I think it's because of the difference between my boost setting and the hardware setting (wastegate pressure)

Has anyone used the Kinugawa actuators on an RB25det highflow? using standard comp and turbine housing. They sell a 1Bar spring that would be perfect.

heres a link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Adjustable-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-Nissan-Skyline-RB25DET-R33-/281163573117?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4176a7a77d

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
    • Ah coolant overflow, previous discussions make way more sense now lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...