Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perhaps you have a blocked cat and this is what the sensor is telling you?

Wouldnt expect it to just all of a sudden block and cause the car not to start at all.

The sensor just unscrews from the cat. Mine still works (AFAIK anyway)

The sensor only makes the warning light come on on the dash, it doesn't send any signal to the ECU.

I changed my fried cat and couldn't get the sensor out so I just cut it and blocked the hole in the new cat with a bolt.

The light comes on and goes out when the car is started.

Your cat may be blocked, or your not starting problem could be totally unrelated...

Try removing the cat and starting the car, if it starts, smash the guts out of your cat, reinstall and buy a new cat ASAP.

Same problem with my car .

My car runs and drives fine tho,but the car wont idle for more than 5mins even after a drive and the owner told me the cat temp is not plugged in thats why its causing it to automatically shutdown or theres more to it than that? & the temp light is always on.

thats the light thats always onpost-112075-0-61525800-1372779439_thumb.jpg

any help would be great.

Yes that's my understanding of the R33 too.

In an R32 the cat over temp light is the check engine light so it does connect to the ecu for that purpose.

Can't understand people hacking wires.

Under the passenger seat you can UNPLUG the cat sensor wiring, no need for butchery.

Fit a grommet in the floor pan hole and it's looking good.

Well mods on the

-Full 3" exhaust

-Fuel pump

-pod filter

-TS boost T

stock everything.

idles fine n drives n sounds fine! But if i start the car let it idle it just won't idle for longer than 5mins its the same even after a drive it automatically turns off the car

But all electronics are on all i have to do is turn the key to the right n it starts again fine.

Try hard wiring the fuel pump using the 'how to', most aftermarket pumps don't like the low power supplied by the factory fuel pump controller. To test it you could run a temporary wire to the battery...

What pump did you install?

well this morning i started up to see how long it will run for

it ran for 12mins n could of kept going so believe it or not it didnt happen today

when i came back from work,it usually runs for a bit n shuts down this time it ran for a while till i got bored like wtf :closedeyes:

i bought the car with the fuel pump already installed.the last owner put it in and he said it holds up to 600hp i believe

Brand- no idea

i'll ask for details coz he said he would fix the shutting down problem anyway.

since he said its cat being unplugged,now i know its not im not happpy :verymad:

Reset the ECU. Quick to do and sometimes solves the problems.

Disconnect battery (negative terminal), Hold foot on brakes, flick lights on and off etc, basically just do whatever you can to drain any residual power.

Wait for 10 mins or so then plug the battery back in and start the car, go for a drive etc.

I'm not sure if the 10 mins of sitting is necessary but just to be sure

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks heaps Duncan and GTSBoy. I'll get my old man to sit in the driver's seat and turn it on and off while I test with the meter. Or maybe other way round, depending on whether he remembers where his glasses got to
    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
×
×
  • Create New...