Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ID have released a all new injector the "ID1300", tech info http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID1300.html


Introducing the ID1300

When we let the cat out of the bag at the PRI show in November, we had no idea we would get the kind of response that we did.

Instead of answering questions about when it will be ready, we are hearing from dealers, and individuals who tell us that their build is on hold until they get their hands on them.

Well guys...we are as excited as you are, but we are also unwilling to release an injector until it is good enough that we can call it the best, without reservation, regardless of the application.

What we are willing to do is use this opportunity to tell you a little bit more about it, and how it came to be.

BoschMotorsport.jpg


The ID1300 is the result of a technical partnership between Injector Dynamics, and Bosch Motorsport This partnership allows us to start with a clean sheet of paper, to develop an injector with characteristics that will make it perform well in a wide variety of performance applications.

The ID1300 Offers

  • Compatibility with all known fuels.
  • Stable operation over a broad pressure range.
  • Low minimum fuel volume, capable of stoichiometric idle in small displacement engines.
  • Smooth controlled response at low pulse widths, allowing accurate linearization using all OEM methods (Ford, GM, Chrysler, Porsche, Subaru, etc.)

Coming soon to a dealer near you...

cut and pasted from there website

wondering if anyone has any ideas or thoughts about them, I put a set on order yesterday and they will be available in 2-3 weeks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428032-id1300/
Share on other sites

Interesting, especially given they are short form factor injectors. At low pulse widths they have a noticeable spike in fuel delivery (see linearity deviation curves) but as for how much difference this actually makes.... I'm not sure. It depends on what kind of pulsewidths you're running at idle but it is a different characteristic to their other injectors.

Another excuse to hold off on injector purchases until I hear more about these :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428032-id1300/#findComment-6914675
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Was hunting down injectors and i heard that they tested these injectors with a much thinner viscocity compared to that of the fuel we use. If i can find an article i will post.

even if that is the case who cares. injector dynamics have an excellent reputation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428032-id1300/#findComment-6949956
Share on other sites

Was hunting down injectors and i heard that they tested these injectors with a much thinner viscocity compared to that of the fuel we use. If i can find an article i will post.

BS....

They're one of the only injector companies that don't use 'test fluid'.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428032-id1300/#findComment-6950049
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...