Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Looking at getting some more power out of my ER34 by installing a TBE and FMIC.

I'm thinking a kakimoto catback + dump system, however I don't seem to know where to find it relatively cheap.

I'm looking for a system that has no drone, but a nice mean rumble at low revs, but roars up high, any other recommendations? I also like the look of twin tips, as opposed to big cannons.

Also, is a tune a MUST after install of the TBE? I understand it will be required to fully reap the benefits of the TBE, but will I be ok to run it without a tune until i get some more dosh for one? Will my fuel mileage go down quicker without a tune?

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428096-help-on-future-mods-for-gains/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

You should look in the classifieds, you are sure to fins a system to suit! There was a HKS on ebay a while back and another HKS Super Dragger on here with Ricky... Cheap enough!

If you are not lifting the boost level and have a factory ECU there is not much you can tune at this stage.

yeh i'm always looking around on the classifieds, hopefully will find one to my liking.

I'm just not too sure on what is good and how they actually sound. I've read around that the HKS one isn't very silent, and i don't want anything that'll wake up the neighbourhood or set off car alarms whilst just cruising lol.

I've upped the boost to 10psi with MBC (i believe that's the maximum safe boost for the stock turbo?). So i wouldn't need a tune for just the new exhaust?

Well i would be rechecking that boost level once you fit these items!

If you get an exhaust that has a centre muffler and a large oval rear muffler it is likely to be quiet etc, if you get one with a hot dog and cannon you are going to be a defect magnet!

I've never run the stock turbo, most say 12psi is fine but any higher and the factory ECU goes into R&R anyway.

I remember watching this when i first got mine SO SO long ago lol

You won't need a tune. A tune would be a good thing, but you won't need it.

I currently have Neo with exhaust, cooler, improved turbo intake, running 11-12 psi on Nistuned ECU with the standard tune. The stock fuel maps only go up to a load of 160, and my load is currently running at 185 max. So that means my ECU is significantly extrapolating off the end of the fuel map. But that hardly matters as the entire top right hand corner of the map is set to 100+% duty cycle anyway. The effect is that I am running factory rich mixtures near the top of my load range and then leaning out as I go past that into extrapolation. But it isn't actually lean - the stock injectors are big enough to keep the mixtures OK at that sort of boost. Going higher would be a concern and wouldn't be attempted without a wideband (and preferably on the dyno). And that's without the concern that the turbo may crap itself if run to higher boost anyway.

FWIW, when I get my crap together the car is going on the dyno for a tune - mainly to make sure there is enough timing in the top end, more so that fixing the fuelling, and to try to improve the cruise economy. Getting better economy may be a bit hard given that the Neo ECUs run a VE map which controls that and it is apparently a bastard to tune.

Re-checking boost as in... it'll pump up with a TBE?

Yeh i want it nice and silent around the streets and a beast when my foot's down lol, thanks for that info.

Are you able to recommend any well-known setup like the one you mentioned? My mate got his system custom made from Performance Exhaust, maybe i can go to them and see what they can do for me.

Tempted to watch the video, but I'm at work! grrr

You won't need a tune. A tune would be a good thing, but you won't need it.

I currently have Neo with exhaust, cooler, improved turbo intake, running 11-12 psi on Nistuned ECU with the standard tune. The stock fuel maps only go up to a load of 160, and my load is currently running at 185 max. So that means my ECU is significantly extrapolating off the end of the fuel map. But that hardly matters as the entire top right hand corner of the map is set to 100+% duty cycle anyway. The effect is that I am running factory rich mixtures near the top of my load range and then leaning out as I go past that into extrapolation. But it isn't actually lean - the stock injectors are big enough to keep the mixtures OK at that sort of boost. Going higher would be a concern and wouldn't be attempted without a wideband (and preferably on the dyno). And that's without the concern that the turbo may crap itself if run to higher boost anyway.

FWIW, when I get my crap together the car is going on the dyno for a tune - mainly to make sure there is enough timing in the top end, more so that fixing the fuelling, and to try to improve the cruise economy. Getting better economy may be a bit hard given that the Neo ECUs run a VE map which controls that and it is apparently a bastard to tune.

I understand most of what you said, I'm not very technically in the know, but I'm learning :)

When you got your NISTUNE, did you not get it tuned up on a dyno?

Thanks for the help. Gotta find me a TBE now!

I bought the ECU and installed the Nistune board myself*. Then installed the engine into the car, along with all the other conversion work**. Then I had to keep it completely standard until it went through Regency for (a comprehensive) roadworthy.

*Actually, there is a lot to that story. Some of the various installations*** were done by Matt from Nistune on his workbench at his place, some were done by me. It is easy enough if you're good with electronics, but there are plenty of ways to stuff it up, so don't take it as read that it is trivial to install a Nistune board.

**So of course there's more story here, in that I did a lot of the work, but of course I had a lot of help from people who know what needs doing and how to get it done.

*** Matt and I had some problems early on with a batch of boards that had a faulty chip. Caused us to go through a few installations to work out what the problem was.

Edited by GTSBoy

as people have said, your boost may rise a touch from an exhaust, mine has gone from 7 up to 9psi just with exhaust, FMIC and pod.

the HSK super dragger is a pretty exhaust, but is a cannon

I see,

Yeh I'm not too good with electronics, when i get to that stage i'll get a pro to do it for me :whistling:

I just had a quick read up of NISTUNE. For a 34, would i need a new ECU, or can the stock r34 ECU be used? Also, approximately how much would it be for the install + tune? Just for future reference since I'm still at the TBE + fmic stage lol.

Nistune can be installed into your existing ECU. It will cost you ~$1200 to get it put in and a tune done. I wouldn't bother unless you were were going to a different turbo and bigger injectors, unless you really want to stretch the last 10rwkW out of the stock stuff at sensible boost levels.

Nistune can be installed into your existing ECU. It will cost you ~$1200 to get it put in and a tune done. I wouldn't bother unless you were were going to a different turbo and bigger injectors, unless you really want to stretch the last 10rwkW out of the stock stuff at sensible boost levels.

Yeh I'm not looking at getting it done anytime soon.

Cheers for the help everyone! Much appreciated

HKS Super Dragger by far is the most quiet exhaust I've heard on a Skyline.

It consists of 1x resonator, 1x mid muffler and 1x rear muffler. It might be huge, but it's quiet. It's more quiet that the HKS Hi Power Silent, etc...

I recommend for you:

- JJR dump pipe (cheap as shit)

- Venom Cat 3" pipe / 4" body

- 2nd hand Japanese, JASMA catback

Won't need a FMIC for 0.8 bar of boost. The R34 SMIC is more than sufficient.

as people have said, your boost may rise a touch from an exhaust, mine has gone from 7 up to 9psi just with exhaust, FMIC and pod.

the HSK super dragger is a pretty exhaust, but is a cannon

Actually it is a muffler just in a round cannon shape! The big body on it muffles sounds really well.

HKS Super Dragger by far is the most quiet exhaust I've heard on a Skyline.

It consists of 1x resonator, 1x mid muffler and 1x rear muffler. It might be huge, but it's quiet. It's more quiet that the HKS Hi Power Silent, etc...

I recommend for you:

- JJR dump pipe (cheap as shit)

- Venom Cat 3" pipe / 4" body

- 2nd hand Japanese, JASMA catback

Won't need a FMIC for 0.8 bar of boost. The R34 SMIC is more than sufficient.

I've heard the HI Power Silent isn't even that silent lol. I'll probably watch some videos on how each system sounds before i decide.

So the JJR dumps are reliable for $200?

Just saw some x-force cat back systems on justjap, curious if anyone knows how they perform and sound?

I've heard the HI Power Silent isn't even that silent lol. I'll probably watch some videos on how each system sounds before i decide.

So the JJR dumps are reliable for $200?

Just saw some x-force cat back systems on justjap, curious if anyone knows how they perform and sound?

The Hi Power Silent is not silent!

Just like my Apexi Super Megaphone is dead quiet!

Japan...................... You are doing it backwards! :laugh:

I'd get a second hand Jap system from the wreckers, that's what I did, The HKS mufflers ive seen are basically a big hollow cannon with a restrictor inside, I have a fujitsubo muffler that's identical gives the same sound for sale, there quiet down low but get angry on WOT..

I think what your after is either a Jap system/ muffler with restrictor or a proper oval muffler on the end such as an Xforce,

Edited by AngryRB

I've heard the HI Power Silent isn't even that silent lol. I'll probably watch some videos on how each system sounds before i decide.

So the JJR dumps are reliable for $200?

Just saw some x-force cat back systems on justjap, curious if anyone knows how they perform and sound?

yeah man just a simple flange with a pipe welded to it.. nothing fancy.. save the rest of your coin on a new turbo or ecu :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...