Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people I have recently been posting a few threads needing help with my rb25 trying to find a cause of my problems with bad idle and smoke. As a lot of people said it was my intercooler pipe that was just blown off. So i just want to say thanks to everyone here for the help and advice on what to do :) so I have it back together now with a highflowed turbo but no supporting mods. So I just want to know if im going the right way with this afyer reading a few threads I belive the best thing to do for a few extra wasps and to safely run the turbo at higher boost will be,

~ 550cc injector upgrade

~greddy ecu (cant remember specific product)

~3" turbo back exhaust

Will I need a bigger intercooler? Still a p plater so I can't go front mount

And of course get it a good dyno tune.

Unless I missed anything that is what im planning on getting done.

Does that seem like an alright path to go down? Not looking for crazy power either.

Any help is aporeciated. And thank you again to the people of SAU :)

Fuel pump.... very important. 550cc injectors will be heaps.

See if you can use a nistune board....

If you drive a series 1 stag then get a series 2 neo side mount intercooler (good for 220rwkw). There was also a side mount intercooler Trust made that was thicker again, but hard to find now.

Start looking at trans supporting mods if it's auto. Trans cooler, shift kit etc...

Yea it's a series 2 with the standard side mount cooler. Saw a thread about fitting a gtr side mount for better xooking and a stock look as well and was thinking of doing that upgrade. Would a gtr fuel pump be alright? Or should I go aftermarket like I will with injectors? Didnt even think about trans oil coolers yet as im aiming for relatively low key power just so I can keep it as a daily without getting harrassed too much

OK so you have a S2 - just get a Nistune chip for your ecu. You already have a decent trans cooler from stock. There is no bigger Nissan side mount but options include Trust or bigger and still more rare an ARC. And get on to the Stagea section - there is a wealth of information there.

Side mounts ...all will fit your car but the non stock ones are hard to find:

Stagea S1 (R33) 210 x 185 x 65

Stagea S2 (R34GTT) 210 x 225 x 80

Trust 195 x 140 x 100

Nismo 200 x 230 x 100

ARC M075 WGNC34G 75

ARC M105 WGNC34G 250 x220x 105

ARC M075 ECR33G

ARC M105 ER34G 250 x 220 x 105

I have a s2 stag.... any more than stock power I would highly recommend an additional trans cooler. Any more than the stock turbo can deliver, seriously consider a shift kit (MV Auto).

I have a deatschwerks fuel pump (kudos motorsport) was factory style drop in fitment... excellent pump.

I have a return pipe cooling pro stealth fmic. I painted the clamps black too.... not noticeable from the front and uses stock pipework under the bonnet. Especially with a stock airbox under the bonnet it all looks factory.

Again, i have a nistune board installed and tuned for 12psi.

All these mods (and a full 3" exhaust) were very simple and produced great results... I picked up 30rwkw through the mid range and 23rwkw at the top end, as well as a heap of torque everywhere.

Be carful choosing a turbo. Stagea's are quite heavy, so lag will be amplified with a larger turbo.

You'll need a z32 AFM if you go with a highflow.

Cheers

Justin

  • 3 weeks later...

Always been kind of worried about the front mounts as they'd have to be spot on to be stealth wouldn't they? How does it run the stock piping as well? I ended up goin with the high flow turbo now im just waiting on rego before I can take it to sone tuners and shops to have a proper look at everything before I go for power. exhaust will be getting done before the tune as well with some nice big mufflers. Thanks for that reply :)

P.s sorry for posting in a dead thread

FMIC is easy enough to be stealth. Just paint it black, don't drive like a knob. The return flow coolers use the stock piping in the enigne bay, passing through the stock holes in the guard, but below there the pipes are different. But that's out of sight, out of mind. If a cop lifts the bonnet, he sees the stock piping going to the stock location. It doesn't scream "FMIC" the way that modified pipework running across the engine bay does. It also means no holes cut in the car, which also tends to scream "defect opportunity" to a certain type of cop.

  • Like 1

Ahk maad, gonna have to look into a front mount. This forum is gonna cost me money with all the ideas everyone has haha

No kidding! I paid $4,500 for my bog standard RS4T - I've spent more than 3 times that much on it in the last three years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...