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Budget SSQV BOV


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LOL...im such a tight a55.. i just bought a replica HKS SSQV BOV made by Autotechnica. Was only $200 so thought id give it a go rather then spend the $300 ppl are asking for a 2nd HKS one...

So installed it and drove around the block, and it isnt overly loud, has a nice soft spring in it so it cracks open at very low boost levels... and was only $200.

It looks very similar to the HKS SSQV, and its no surprise that the packaging even looks the same. It works a treat, im stoked...just wondering if anyone else is using one...the poor mans rice mod :P

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Atmo?

I hate the SSQV - it was pretty hopeless for me but it did make a idiotic sound.

T.

Pretty hopleless, how? I use to have a Sequentil HKS, then i had the Super Sequential...they all worked fine, just as this one does...and yeh its atmo, who wants that already compressed air, ie hot air being recirculated back before the turbo to be compressed again and further heated :P They do sound kinda funny dont they... my old Super Sequential didnt have that star thingy so didnt screech like your old one

As for the quality, im not so sure its an issue... i had a pretty damn close look at it, and i cant see any problem with it, and any little casting , injection moulding marks are exactly the same as my old HKS one....

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Sequentil HKS, then i had the Super Sequential...

Whats the difference in the 2 valves? I have always used a turbosmart type 3 valve and am thinking of trying one of the HKS varieties, which one is better and why ?

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I have the autotechnica valve, i thought it was sh!t i would like to get hold of another valve ASAP because it was leaking when i got it due to the fact that the internals where not sealing properly and it is probably still leaking.

I understand it is a straigth hks ssqv.

You should make it vent back into the intake after the MAF sensor and before the turbo otherwise your car wont idle very well and it may stall after you come off the throttle from high revs. This is because the ecu is counting on the air that is vented to be fed back into the intake.

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I have the autotechnica valve, i thought it was sh!t i would like to get hold of another valve ASAP because it was leaking when i got it due to the fact that the internals where not sealing properly and it is probably still leaking.  

I understand it is a straigth hks ssqv.

You should make it vent back into the intake after the MAF sensor and before the turbo otherwise your car wont idle very well and it may stall after you come off the throttle from high revs. This is because the ecu is counting on the air that is vented to be fed back into the intake.

Can i ask how you know its leaking?

My car idles fine, there is no way the vacuum of th eengine at idle is enough to draw the piston open. My car doesnt stall ... it did when not running a BOV for a period of time... it works exactly like the std one, but without all the wooshing through my HKS filter

Im stoked... i took a punt on a budget part and it works great. :D The seats of the valve appear to be nitrile rubber, (or similar) and i cant see anything in the inlet air thats going to cause the seals/valve setas to deteriorate...but ill keep an eye on them.

Im actually thinking about getting a 2nd one to install where i was going to put a Trust Type S plumb back, as it seems to have a spring too stiff for my liking

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I know it was leaking back then because the valve when it closed didnt seat properly. After pulling it apart and sorting it out it looks like it seals alright now (poor build quality).

What i meant wasnt that the leaking causes poor idle. When you come off the throttle from high rev the valve vents.

Case1 when it vents back into the intake (after the MAF and before the turbo) the computer knows that air has been vented back into the system and it doesnt measure it. The computer is setup for this type of plumb back operation, even the PowerFC expects it.

Case2 when it vents to free air the computer is still expecting the air to be in the system (ala plumb back) so therefore all of a sudden (as the engine is falling back to idle) the air is not there but it still puts the amount of fuel in that it would for the plumb back system and the idle will drop below set idle sometimes stalling the motor.

I personally wish i had just bought a HKS SSQV or a proper plumb back blow off valve because the mounting flange for the cheap SSQV wont fit a normal plumb back blow off valve AND with the plumb back my car (i have a PowerFC) would run much better.

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I personally wish i had just bought a HKS SSQV or a proper plumb back blow off valve because the mounting flange for the cheap SSQV wont fit a normal plumb back blow off valve AND with the plumb back my car (i have a PowerFC) would run much better.

Well for what its worth, my car ran fine with the std BOV, ran fien with the HKS BOV, ran fien with an Apexi BOV, and it runs fine with the Monza BOV....and also the mounting flange for the Monza is the same as for the HKS, thats the reason i bought the Monza, because i had welded the HKS flange to my IC piping but had sold my HKS BOV. So if you replace your Monza i wouldnt buy the HKS BOV.

I understand what you are saying about the AFM thing, but for some reason it doesnt appear to be so termpermental on my car, perhaps its due to the re-written ecu i have.

Also i joked about it, but i dont want compressed/hotter air being re-ciculated around my inlet system only to be compressed/heated again...

... and the momentary rich A/F when you change gears may even have a cooling effect on the piston crown... may not be a huge difference, but on paper they could be helping the engine perform better. The oly thing is that atmo BOVs arent popular with cerain authorities, but im no trouble magnet so not too concerned about that... there is a lot more going on in my engine bay then a plastic BOV.

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Also i joked about it, but i dont want compressed/hotter air being re-ciculated around my inlet system only to be compressed/heated again...

... and the momentary rich A/F when you change gears may even have a cooling effect on the piston crown... may not be a huge difference, but on paper they could be helping the engine perform better.

I'd like to clear up that misconception for you so you can get on with appreciating the total riceness of the mod :D

The air coming out of the BOV has already been through your intercooler, it doesn't do anything to increase the temp of the intake air to the motor, thats just silly if you think about it. As for extra rich fueling you must understand that a BOV interfering with the AFR does not so so in a measured and precise way. This means unless it's an absolute fluke there is not necessarily any 'piston crown' cooling more likely the poor mixture drops the power very slightly. If you want piston crwon cooling get rotational idle and a propper tune.

At least you aren't spending big bucks so your kilo of rice is really costing less :)

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As i said i would have preferred a plumb back BOV that would have cost a bit more, so i dont have to listen to the SSQV every time i change gears. Everytime i go for a drive every looser with a lancer or a commodore thinks i am racing them when i take of normally at a set of lights, this is annoying as i would severely beat them if i was racing and i hear every now and again that a lancer had me pinned in a race several weeks back etc, that is just a joke. A plumb back would make much less noise, the only reason i went for the SSQV was because it was cheap.

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I'd like to clear up that misconception for you so you can get on with appreciating the total riceness of the mod :)

The air coming out of the BOV has already been through your intercooler, it doesn't do anything to increase the temp of the intake air to the motor, thats just silly if you think about it.

Sorry cant go along with you there, the real world aspect of what i am saying may not add up to a lot, but the science of what i am saying is sound. Call you inlet air thru the Air filter T1, the outlet air from the Turbo T2, and outlet of intercooler T3.

Would you agree, T1

Yes i know you understand the process, im not trying to be condascending, and i may be pulling at hairs, but the theory is sound.

As for extra rich fueling you must understand that a BOV interfering with the AFR does not so so in a measured and precise way. This means unless it's an absolute fluke there is not necessarily any 'piston crown' cooling more likely the poor mixture drops the power very slightly. If you want piston crwon cooling get rotational idle and a propper tune.

Like you said, it isnt a controlled burst of rich A/F, but the AFM sensed car will run momentarily rich with an atmo BOV, sometimes rich enough for a pop in the pipe, so the rich mixture will on paper have an effect on combustion chamber temps. Im NOT saying IT IS A MEASURABLE/REPEATABLE difference, but again if you think about the process there may be something to it. And based on SOP feeligns, it isnt running rich enough to hurt power.

I'd like to clear up that misconception for you so you can get on with appreciating the total riceness of the mod :)

At least you aren't spending big bucks so your kilo of rice is really costing less :)

Ive got no prob with the rice nature of the mod, its all a bit of fun :) i needed a BOV as my new piping did not allow for the std one, and i had 2nd thoughts about running the std BOV with a TD06 and 1.3 bar.

And for the noise, its actually quieter then the std BOV wooshing back through my HKS air filter, it helps keep things quiet when you cant hit boost on the street :)

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  • 4 years later...

nice searching skills :)

trubosmart products are usually good items, try it and see if it performs for you. bear in mind some do take a little adjusting if it is available.

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hey roy.

i have a replica ssq aswell. holds 16+psi on worries.

what u can do if that chirp pisses u off is take out the tri-blade fins in the outlet of the bov. this will get rid of almost all noise, except for a light psshh no louder than a plumb back bov.

or u could always take off the vac line to it, block it and dose it :)

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I know it was leaking back then because the valve when it closed didnt seat properly. After pulling it apart and sorting it out it looks like it seals alright now (poor build quality).

What i meant wasnt that the leaking causes poor idle. When you come off the throttle from high rev the valve vents.

Case1 when it vents back into the intake (after the MAF and before the turbo) the computer knows that air has been vented back into the system and it doesnt measure it. The computer is setup for this type of plumb back operation, even the PowerFC expects it.

Case2 when it vents to free air the computer is still expecting the air to be in the system (ala plumb back) so therefore all of a sudden (as the engine is falling back to idle) the air is not there but it still puts the amount of fuel in that it would for the plumb back system and the idle will drop below set idle sometimes stalling the motor.

I personally wish i had just bought a HKS SSQV or a proper plumb back blow off valve because the mounting flange for the cheap SSQV wont fit a normal plumb back blow off valve AND with the plumb back my car (i have a PowerFC) would run much better.

I purchased one from 999 automotive for 120 works a charm. Ive had the same prob If adjusted all the out the idle goes funny just have to play with it to suit your car.

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