Jump to content
SAU Community

Error Code Help


Recommended Posts

A bit of background first.

I have recently done a DIY minor service, cleaned the throttle body and installed a SxExCx grounding kit and since then the Check Engine Light (C.E.L) display constantly while driving. And when the car is given the beans, the VCD and SLIP lights come on and stay on; only on occasions, not every time which was odd.

The car drives perfectly, no misses or leaks, gear shifts are great. It actually feels heaps better since the service/clean/grounding kit. So it is very odd.

Please also note, I performed the ECU reset and could not clear the C.E.L.

So today I had my car scanned and I got back 4 error codes.

ENGINE: ign signal primary

ABS: abnormal batt voltage

ABS: engine signal 1

CVT-TRANS: starter relay circ.

The codes were deleted/reset but the engine/slip/VCD light came back on while driving home. I will be taking the car back for another scan and a better look into any of the problems.

Does anyone know what would be causing these problems and how to fix them? Any advice would be great.

Cheers,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All those codes may have been there for a while, I would check the new error, getting the code number once it's scanned and plug it in to google. Was it a local Mech you went to?

Nissan's Consult3 units give a much more detailed description of faults (sometimes) and it can be worth taking it to Nissan for a scan, but at $150-200 it isn't cheap. The Chinese Consult3 knockoff I use works well on all the ecu's in the car, I also have the Osirus cable which gives good descriptions of engine codes. Other units can be hit and miss, and it would depend if the mech updated the unit with later Japanese protocols.

The slip light could be caused by mismatched tyre sizing also I think. So all three lamps come on together?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My brothers a mechanic, and he scanned it at his work. They had a brand new scanner that had the option for Infiniti so figured it would work.

He said some of the codes could have been old. Will find out tonight what the outcome of the rescan is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the codes re-occur, I would be tempted to disconnect the grounding kit and see how it goes, since they seem to be voltage related issues. Also check you didn't leave any factory ground disconnected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have my grounding kit going on the tbs to negative terminal and also engine block n terminal n chassis. My tbs are more responsive and easier to drive. Pretty sure it isn't only me who thinks the grounding kit works

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys.

So the rescan came up with the same 4 codes. It points to a voltage issue which could stem from the grounding kit supplying higher voltage which the ECU cant deal with so the engine light comes on. Its not doing any harm to the car, its just an annoyance. So I will be disconnecting the grounding kit to see if it solves the problem.

It would be a shame as I have noticed a difference since putting it on. Its marginal but know how the car felt and drove before and after, its not just a placebo. The factory grounding is weak, just one connection from the battery to the chassis and then a couple from the chassis to certain components. Adding this grounding kit to have connections from the battery to the engine and from there to other point and the trans has to be better right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Grounding kits aren't necessilary bad, but they need to be designed properly. If someone just throws a kit together without much thought, you can end up with earth loops which will cause all kinds of voltage/sensor related issues.

From what I have heard, the grounding kits can help a bit with auto transmission shifts. But you would be much better off cleaning the factory grounds and invest in a shift kit for the transmission.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...