Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I really want to run a forward facing (not even for the performance gain, but for the fact that changing plugs and setting timing become a harder task with the piping running it's current course).
Just wondering who has used what plenum? and a link to purchase.
Pro's and cons of said plenum?
What you've had to move in the engine bay to run the plenum?
Have you had to modify the plenum itself to fit?
If the throttle cable didn't reach, which cable did you use?
Did the tps wiring reach or did it need extending?

Any other valuable information is appreciated.

Cheers, Cameron.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428716-rb20det-forward-facing-plenum/
Share on other sites

I agree with the comment above... in most cases going for a front facing plenum is going to be a performance loss, not a gain. This is due to the shorter runner length robbing you of torque low in the rev range. Due to the smaller capacity this will be very apparent with the RB20 engine and make it a pig for day to day driving.

You can get cheap copies of the Plazmaman style plenum top on eBay, this will retain your lower runners which is probably the best compromise.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/All-New-POLISHED-Nissan-R32-Skyline-RB20DET-RB20-GTS-Intake-Manifold-Plenum-/121040978566?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2e9ac286

Keep the stock one, unless you just want your bay to look 'neater'

I was going to get the plazmaman rb20 plenum, but after reading a lot of info about these going onto rb20det it's a loss in power.

Also supposably it bolts straight on BUT other things will get in the way, battery ect.

So I'm sticking with stock, good for 270kw or more. An rb20 probably won't see much more than that anyway..

This was one of the plenums that caught my eye as it looks relatively standard to someone (ie: a cop) who doesn't know much about plenums and would only be looking for shiny chrome.

Anyone on here used it and has some feedback?

I simply wouldn't do this to any RB engine unless I was putting a high mount turbo on and there was simply no hope of keeping the inlet pipe running across the engine toward the turbo. All other reasons (appearance, accessibility of coils/plugs) are insufficient for the compromises and arse pain involved.

I simply wouldn't do this to any RB engine unless I was putting a high mount turbo on and there was simply no hope of keeping the inlet pipe running across the engine toward the turbo. All other reasons (appearance, accessibility of coils/plugs) are insufficient for the compromises and arse pain involved.

I have a t04e high mount using a stock plenum.. Still not changing though.. :) ..the plenum that is.

My t04e can get farrrrked

Edited by Zrobe

The use of the word "and" in my post is required to understand the meaning of it. The necessary conditions would be highmount AND inability to keep the crossover pipe clear.

lol relax man

I've actually ordered a plazmaman plenum for mine to simply clean up the engine bay and make everything easier to get to, I'm just waiting for it to turn up. So far I'll have to extend the tps wires and I'm not too sure what I'm going to do with the coolant pipes yet but I'll let you know how I go.

Just do it like the pic that johnnilicte posted. All the money you will spend on this could go to another turbo, or tune, or injectors, or guages or anything else you want. You will spend the money then regret it like i did on my RB25 when i bought a china front mount and all i had was issues, and for what? Nothing.

That's definitely going to be plan B, but it's only solving one problem..

I'm still going to do more research until I can completely rule out a forward facing, then I will retreat to Plan B.

I make money to spend it, and it's not really that much. I see it as more of a gain than a waste so I'm happy to justify a few hundred on a new plenum if it makes my life easier down the track.

Also, I don't want another turbo or any other mods to this engine along those lines. I'm keeping the car the way it is (to a certain extent) so I can enter it in the AS class for nationals and still have a car that's happy to be street driven. My extra cash goes into the track car which is where I want the power.

It's not a gain. It is a waste. And no, there are no options for bolting anything onto the standard runners that are as good as the standard plenum. Those options are only the least worst.

Big FFPs are for motors making massive power that need a big increase in plenum volume (and a suitable increase in TB size and so on). There's no need at all at anything up to quite unstreetable power levels.

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...