Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I decided to sell my R32 Skyline.

I bought it in October last year (2012) with the idea of it being a project car.

With having a 2 year old child plus another one on the way I'm finding it harder and harder to find time to do anything and i wanting to make a return to 2 wheels which i gave up to buy this.

I reckon i've put 1500-2000 klms on it since I bought it.

Since i've had it I've done the RWC which required a new windscreen, front rotors pads and tyres.

I fitted a set of DBA slotted rotors with QFM brake pads which for a 20+ year old car, pulls up better than my wife's brand new SV6 Wagon on even my brother brand new FPV GS!!!!

I have since fitted a set of 18 inch rims but still have the original R34 GT rims i bought it with.

Have also fitted a HID head light kit which has made a massive improvement over the originals.

It has a few performance mods but needs to be tuned for them all to work to full potential. Have recently discovered that it has a chipped ECU.

This is pretty much the original advertisement on this webiste i've copied and pasted over with some of the original pictures. and some new ones since i've fitted the new rims

xterior
Looks wise its fairly standard, has the factory type m skirts, rear pods and I have recently sprayed and fitted a genuine Gtr front bar. Also have fitted a rear lip from viva garage which is fairly unique and in my opinion looks great. Currently rolling on r34 gt stock wheels all round with good rubber. The car sits approximately 1" lower than stock height on bilstein shocks, nice and stiff ride but not to stiff for daily driving (height is still very roadworthy).

Interior
The interior is nice and clean for an 89 model with no cracks or bubbles in the dash, only let down is a tiny rip on the drivers seat. Only interior mods are a boost gauge sneakily installed where the drivers air vent should be which I still have. Also the factory head unit has been replaced with an alpine head unit with an iphone/ipod cable neatly tucked away.

Engine mods
Most of the engine mods have been professionally fitted by the previous owner which include an r34 op6 turbo, nismo 555cc injectors, z32 afm, hks pod, blitz return flow intercooler, splitfire coilpacks, 3" turbo back exhaust currently with twin drift pipes at rear but I have 3" blitz rear muffler to make it quieter. The engine bay appears completely standard due to the return flow cooler and hks pod being mounted inside the shell of a standard airbox. Have had a hwy patrol officer look over and did not pick a single thing out.

The car runs fine and appears healthy but is in need a tune as it runs very rich and has alot more power potential.
estimating power figures at around 165rwkw at the moment.

Have recently done a little service which included and oil and filter change using motal 4100 and installed new ngk copper spark plugs. An oil change has been completed every 5000km's by me since I have owned the car.


bad points
-rear guards have had the lips rolled for bigger wheels
-slight weep of power steering fluid coming from hicas lines but doesn't drip has been like this since I have owned the car (will not be a roadworthy issue)
-small scratch on rear bumper (hardly noticable)

$8,500 ono

Can be viewed in Healesville

Call Trav on 0438-217-644

post-103600-0-02376200-1374125098_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-01500800-1374125102_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-67087300-1374125105_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-15738900-1374125110_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-96171400-1374125112_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-33206400-1374125117_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-32503100-1374125318_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-33546100-1374125325_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-47026900-1374125332_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-96456300-1374125338_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-34612000-1374125345_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-06975900-1374125356_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-09392000-1374125365_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-59738100-1374125374_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-04616400-1374125385_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428848-vic-1989-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys,

sorry for the late reply's. For some reason it hasn't been notifying me when someone has posted.

selcuk - Sorry dude, not interested in swaps at all. I will be looking to get back onto two wheels eventually but i'm very very picky on my bikes. And i've had alot of mates buy jetski's and piss them off at a big loss 12 months later.

Jack_Sky - yeah the'yre perfect actually. I've just copied and pasted the original ad from here and added what i needed to.

dropped price to $7,750.00

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...