Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Exactly what Terry said. I would strongly recommend the import path if you have the time and money. I admit that I was very lucky but there are a lot more options in Japan then here.

Although you will pay a premium (I'd guess around $5K) I often keep an eye on what these guys have in stock;

www.best-r.com

If you are after a nice car in the long run don't try to save a little cash up front. Get the best car that you can afford. If I had the money and storage this would be it!

http://is-group.jp/skyline/011535.html

That car is NOT suitable for driving and modifying though. I reaslise how stupid that may sound but as soon as you do either to any exent the value plummets.

A ha - you're the one the Iron Chef teased me with when I signed up with them......

Thankfully the Iron Chef was able to find me a similar car just yesterday - still smiling from ear to ear.....and this also relates to this topic.

I looked at an R32 Vspec2 that Edward Lees had on their web page. They had a video of the car in Japan and I noted some small issues (dent in the rear quarter panel). So I wrote a nice email expressing my interest in the car and noting down the typical questions I would have (Auction sheet, close up pics of the damage etc....) I then get a call from the place saying how great it was that I had an interest in the car, how great a dealership they were, how fantastic the car was and that they'd send more info.

They did indeed send another video, with Phil showing the car off (only from the side without the dent mind you) - no other info was forthcoming.

This more then anything else convinced me to go direct import and based on the recommendations in the import thread, I chose to engage the Iron Chef.

Needless to say I am not dissappointed

Cheers

The Baron

Nah

Two kid, wife and a GTR. The wife's Golf GTi makes the perfect runaround. I wouldn't have been able to get the stock exhaust or spare front lip home without it!

lol same here - wife and two kids. She just got her Mini Countryman John Cooper Works (on the condition I was allowed to get the GTR ;-)

Also have a 1964 Morris Minor and the daily Driver is (work) Camry Hybrid

Cheers

The Baron

Nah

Two kid, wife and a GTR. The wife's Golf GTi makes the perfect runaround. I wouldn't have been able to get the stock exhaust or spare front lip home without it!

Sounds exactly like me Chris, 2 kids, wife and twincharged Golf. Except no GTR........yet

+ Stagea as daily

+ 70s Holden (garage storage queen)

lol same here - wife and two kids. She just got her Mini Countryman John Cooper Works (on the condition I was allowed to get the GTR ;-)

Also have a 1964 Morris Minor and the daily Driver is (work) Camry Hybrid

Cheers

The Baron

Hi Andeas,

Congratulations on the purchase of your GTR, she's a beauty. Don't see many left like that.

Your budget must have been sizeable to snag that one.

Looks like it is coming to Melbourne, so it will be near enough to get a look at it maybe when it arrives. I would love to see it in the flesh. I have never seen a grade 5A R32 in the flesh BTW.

Tony.

Charcoal grey Bride is sitting next to me in the office today. It is a little embarrasing though when a box around 1.6M high arrives at work from Japan and says "Bride"

I'm doing everything possible to maintain the car and its originality. To the point of not wearing my wedding ring when I drive it! :rolleyes:

That's the way, don't need the ring anymore, you have the GTR.

Hi Andeas,

Congratulations on the purchase of your GTR, she's a beauty. Don't see many left like that.

Your budget must have been sizeable to snag that one.

Looks like it is coming to Melbourne, so it will be near enough to get a look at it maybe when it arrives. I would love to see it in the flesh. I have never seen a grade 5A R32 in the flesh BTW.

Tony.

No probs - I am sure I'll be around the traps......

As for budget its definitely at the Top end for me - but hey I've saved 8 years and remember the cost of the car is the difference between buy and sale price (at least that's what I told the wife ;-)

Cheers

The Baron

Nah

Two kid, wife and a GTR. The wife's Golf GTi makes the perfect runaround. I wouldn't have been able to get the stock exhaust or spare front lip home without it!

The only downside is that the wife's car's LR rim always mysteriously develops gutter rash!

Hahaha I'm having a chuckle at the last dozen or so posts - wife, 3 kids and a mortgage and 42 - in exchange for keeping my N1, wifey has now requested a V36 coupe for herself...in manual, bless her.

Stick to the script...

If her favourite number is "2", get her a Grade 2 :P

*Apologies for going OT, will cut it out after this*

Haha Terry, I can confidently say I've never bought a grade 2 in the entire time I've been importing!

Actually the deal for getting her the V36 was that I get to bring in one of these as a family car:

2009_infiniti_fx50s_30_gallery_image_lar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...