Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-7s on a 2.7-2.8 would give you the same or better response then the stock turbs on a 2.6 and given a stroker kit comes with a forged crank rods and Pistons, I would suggest the extra for the kit to get the extra CCs is well worth it for the benefits you get from it :thumbsup:

  • Like 1

The part I always find interesting with these "I want better response" threads is no seems to want to do anything that aids in response

The list of things everyone wants to do to while chasing response

Leave comp standard=wrong

Leave capacity standard=wrong

Fit larger duration cams=wrong

Fit larger turbo chargers=wrong

Even things like exhaust sizing has shown a noticeable difference in response and power right thru the rev range

  • Like 2

Ok, so we are realy gona work on the head, clean it up, up the comp, and leave standed cams with addjusterbal gears, going to set the gates up so they open at the last second and control the gate flutter with EBC, and plenty of tune time on cams and mid range, also looking at e85 options,

Lighten flywheel, stanless dumps and front pipe, are the stanless manifolds worth wile? Or port match the factory and head rap?

are the stanless manifolds worth wile? Or port match the factory and head rap?

As Brett said, tickle the stockers. There is no gains to be made here and you won't be ripping them off to replace/fix them when they fail.

Take that money and buy yourself a front diff.

  • 1 month later...

Post to the top!!

I have -7's on an otherwise stock motor, running a HKS EVC 6 - not the colour version.

As with many others, I was under the impression that boost would be very close to stock.

As you can see in the dyno graph, boost builds very slowly (i reach peak boost 17psi at around 4800-5000 rpm)

I'll be going back to the tuners in Jan for cam gears, larger injectors and a retune, but wondering if winding in more actuator pre-load could help.

Will be turning the boost controller off and seeing what boost i reach running off actuator pressure tomorrow. I have no idea if the previous mechanics checked actuator preload before fitting them.....

Anyway, that's my story.. cool story bro

post-74132-0-30078600-1419924127_thumb.jpg

What's your cam timing

-7s will never match stock ceramics for response :(

When you changed turbos did you reset the wastegate setting on the EBC

You can also adjust the gain on the EVC 6 to get it to ramp up faster

Haven't checked mechanical cam timing yet, but will look at that after NYE.

EBC was installed at the same time as the turbos. It was reset and tuned from there.

I have played with the gain (offset), and have found a sweet spot 113% offset. Any more I lose response... However, I shouldn't need to use the offset function tbh.

I turned off the controller this morning, on wastegate pressure, boosted to 9psi. Might add a few mm of preload to the actuators to get closer to 11psi which i think is the rated spring pressure for -7 turbos.

I know that they will be laggier than stock, but they shouldn't be this laggy

Haven't checked mechanical cam timing yet, but will look at that after NYE.

EBC was installed at the same time as the turbos. It was reset and tuned from there.

I have played with the gain (offset), and have found a sweet spot 113% offset. Any more I lose response... However, I shouldn't need to use the offset function tbh.

I turned off the controller this morning, on wastegate pressure, boosted to 9psi. Might add a few mm of preload to the actuators to get closer to 11psi which i think is the rated spring pressure for -7 turbos.

I know that they will be laggier than stock, but they shouldn't be this laggy

Yeah 16psi at 4000rpm seems normal for -7s so there's definitely something going on with your setup. Upping pre-load seems like a reasonable first step in diagnosis (since its free :) ). Just check that their operation is synchronised with a hand pump after the adjustment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
    • Fair enough, I am in no way a tire expert so I'm not familiar with all the terms and conditions. I'll definitely note down the AD09 to potentially try in the future. Rain is not too big of a concern for now as I will probably only drive in the rain when I have to. And considering I still lack experience driving the GTR I'd more than likely take it easy too. I have coilovers in the car but as I barely got to drive so far I never bothered to even check if they are adjustable haha. The suspension is almost entirely old and worn as well so I suppose when I eventually fix that in the future that would make a huge difference.
×
×
  • Create New...