Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Given a 'tank' isn't a unit of measurement, I suggest calculating L/100km to give a better idea of economy.

But such a significant change suggests something is wrong. Fuel leak, clogged exhaust, faulty O2 sensors.. or a host of other possible problems. If you aren't too 'car savvy', probably best to get it checked by your mechanic.

Edited by sonicii
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429472-kms-to-a-tank/#findComment-6948954
Share on other sites

There isn't really anything to 'tune' on these cars, unless you spend $$$ on an uprev reflash, or something similar. And you don't want to be doing something like this until the fault causing the poor fuel economy is repaired.

Perhaps they just mean a full service? oil, filters, etc. - even so, it is unlikely to impact the economy by that much.

Did it slowly get worse, or just became bad all of a sudden?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429472-kms-to-a-tank/#findComment-6948967
Share on other sites

So when you filled it up after 300km, how many litres did it take? What sort of driving are you doing?

I get anywhere from 8 l/100 km (flat freeway at 100 Kph) to 15 l/100 km (in heavy city traffic with a/c on full in summer), and expect to see around 12 - 14 l/100 km in normal city driving. If I was driving for economy (and I don't) I'd hope to see this go down by 1 - 2 l/100 km. How does that compare to yours?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429472-kms-to-a-tank/#findComment-6949413
Share on other sites

i drive normally not like redlining it all the time, i also fill up 98 every time. I called my mechanic and he said he will be able to look at it this weekend so hopefully its nothing major. thanks for all the help guys, i was pretty worried that it might be something major

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429472-kms-to-a-tank/#findComment-6950010
Share on other sites

City vs Hwy driving makes a massive difference in mine. That being said, I still get at least 450-500km out of a tank and the most that I have even put in is less than 70lt. Keep in mind that these things have an 80lt tank.

80l? I choked and struggled into a city a few years back and only filled up 64l...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429472-kms-to-a-tank/#findComment-6951060
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...