Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice, I have mine somewhere, similarly high silicone content which didn't stress me much. I wonder if it could be from the silicone based sealant used in assembly?

I definitely prefer 4000-5000k oil changes, but I always drop it right after trackdays and heavy dyno sessions when I know it's been given a hard time. Skipping service intervals with modern engines will definitely end in tears, I have seen it many times.

  • 5 months later...

UOA number 2. 6000kms on Mobil 1 0W-40 (not Delvac 1 as stated in the report). Viscosity within spec this time. I believe this Mobil uses a grp IV basestock, and the SynPower uses grp III. Silicon ok this time.

Picture embedding is hanging my browser, so;

http://cdn.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_5500/gallery_15274_5500_65779.png

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

hmm you must have been in the same queue as my check, took bloody ages to come back.

And I'm not really happy, the old place got taken over and the new reports no longer provide reference / benchmark data. I did call up and ask and they confirmed they would not do it anymore, just an overall OK or not.....they expect us to send multiple samples to show a trend over time

:down:

  • 9 months later...

Oil sample #3 looking good at 7500kms. Oil is Mobil 1 0W-40. Viscosity is good, TBN is good, just some oxidation. I have noticed the temp gauge which is usually steadfast at about 2/5s has taken a few trips up to 3/5s for no apparent reason recently, and its been very cold in Sydney. Ill take a look at the cooling system and probably run the next to 7500.

gallery_15274_5500_204939.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 10 months later...

8200kms and looking good. As usual the oil is Mobil 1 0W-40. Since TBN (indicator of additive level) is still very high, and viscosity is good, ill run the next change out to 10k. Oxidation number is high, but AFAICT its not relied on much as the test can falsely read high. Since everything else looks good, especially TBN (which at 2 is still considered ok) it makes sense to extend the OCI.

@wht510 IIRC its about $40 each for the ones i got (there are options, and the website is shitty

http://www.alsglobal.com/en/Our-Services/Industrial/Tribology/Capabilities/Oil-Analysis.aspx

EDIT: Overheating mentioned in June 15 post was due to a badly clogged up radiator.

gallery_15274_5500_54398.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...