Jump to content
SAU Community

Sau Nsw Official Half Way Robertson Meet Up 15/9/13


Recommended Posts

Ah that sucks. Well I just finished my ten day stint and have the rest of the week off :P

Not that that makes you feel any better :(

Pretty keen for this :D

Shell signed blood so she coming.

Bad luck Chris ! I would rather next week off ! Because GTA IS COMING !

Eh.. Only games I play these days are racing games/simulators. Have built myself a pretty epic setup/cockpit :P

BF4? :D!

Haha still unsure.... I was a massive fan on bf2 10 years ago, over 1500 hours played back in the day lol. Bought bf3 and played it for about 2 months then was over it. I have a feeling bf4 will be a repeat of bf3 so I'm a little hesitant :(

Whereas I get a solid 4 hours a week out of Live for Speed, and don't get bored with that :D

Edited by dontyellpl0x

Haha still unsure.... I was a massive fan on bf2 10 years ago, over 1500 hours played back in the day lol. Bought bf3 and played it for about 2 months then was over it. I have a feeling bf4 will be a repeat of bf3 so I'm a little hesitant :(

Whereas I get a solid 4 hours a week out of Live for Speed, and don't get bored with that :D

EA admitted to breaking BF3 - BF3 SUCKED ! however, they've realised their faults and will be fixing everything in BF4. By a start - they brought back commander

BF3 was amazing. The early maps where nothing special but the actual game was the best FPS released to date. The newer expansions are amazing.

New generation BF player? Becuase BF3 was probably the worse Battlefield installment. The graphics are amazing and to date, the best still. But the gameplay, competitive mode (There is no competitve mode - so you can't play BF3 competitively) and no commander, wayyy to many OP things example Anti-air and Jets do like 50% more damage to Helicopters - mind you Helicopters are a still target yet can be shot down in a second). there were MANY of things broken with BF3. Yes it was a good game from BF2 - but they quickly killed the game. Also, BF3 is dead - there are a total of like 10+ servers active during peak times.

I wouldn't complain anything is OP in BF3 tbh. Everything can be countered. ive got full platinum stars for both jets and choppers and i can get in one and make it last the entire game. Honestly the only "BROKEN" thing was metro with nades and rockets. Brilliant game.

Bf4 will be amazing. Not quite as good as GTA 5.

BF3 is dead and has been dead for quite awhile. I am a HUGE Battlefield fan and have been playing since game 1. EA have already admitted to its mistakes (Hence BF3 sucking) but they've promised to deliver in BF4 to which I think will happen.

Anyways, got that phonecall yet?

Edited by RosieR34
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...