Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I intend using a 1.3mm metal head gasket with CP 86.5mm 8.5:1 pistons in my RB26.

Can you let me know which compression ratio I will have with a standard non skimmed head?

All the compression ratio calculators are asking for data which I couldn't find, hence me asking here.

Just want to make sure that the compression ratio won't drop too much as I already bought the head gasket but not the CP pistons.

Would you therefore recommend running 9.0:1 pistons or 8.5:1? Installed GT2860-5 turbos already.

Thanks!

Edited by Behind Horizon

Piston selection is going to make more difference than your choice of head gasket - why would you not be using the higher compression pistons?. Should have bought the pistons before choosing head gasket. Presumably you can return the head gasket if it is not suitable. What compression ratio do you want and what fuel will you be using?

The cometic head gasket I have came together with a RB26 complete engine gasket kit from which I used already half of the gaskets.

Hence I can't return the head gasket and would like to use it.

CP piston data SC7310:

Bore (in): 3.406 in.
Bore (mm): 86.500mm
Piston Style: Dome, with no valve reliefs
Piston Material: Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in): 1.193 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc): -16.20cc

Check the attachment for other data.

I couldn't find data for the deck height so I assume it must be close to original with these pistons as their compression ratio is 8.5:1?

post-38112-0-93146900-1376831239_thumb.jpg

Edited by Behind Horizon

Still think you're complicating things unnecessarily. If there is nothing strange about your build you would expect 8.5:1 pistons to give you a CR of 8.5:1 and 9.0:1 would give you 9.0:1.

In fact there may well be a small variance but I defy anyone to calculate it - you will have to measure it when the pistons are installed.

^ I looked it up, and most people that actually real world tested it said 63 +/- 1.5cc.

But for the sake of calculation, using 70cc spits out 8.02:1. Again with 0mm deck clearance.

Edited by Shoujiki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...