Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I'm undergoing well almost finished building my full house rb26, I'm thinking of a single turbo kit and really interested in the precision range turbos, I was looking into the 6766 ball bearing turbo, anyone using these on their rb26 and what feedback I can get regarding it, also where is best site I can purchase this from

Thanks alot guys cheers

FP HTA SUPER 94. My opinion.

Maybe ask this in the precision turbo thread? That is what it's there for. Then when others want to search for a similar topic to yours there is bnot 71 different off shoots about Precision turbos. Pm "Lithium" and ask him what he recommends in the Forced Perfornance HTA RANGE. in particular the super 94. Would be similar to a 6766 but better I think.

Josh.

  • Like 1

This question is difficult to answer without being told what expectations are. 33GTRV is fairly on the money from what I've seen, if you want silly power and retain response a bit closer to typical midrange turbos (GT3582R->T04Z of the old generation) then the 6466 is probably good for that kind of thing.

If you are aiming at getting SERIOUS and thinking more about T51R type power but with lag closer to a run of the mill T04Z then I'd skip the 6766 and go straight to an 94HTA based turbo. While neither the Precision or FP crowds release maps if I were a betting man I'd say that if mapped - the 94HTA would provide a much wider map, as opposed to a taller (read: needs more boost for big power) map like the 6766.

This wouldn't be conventional thinking, but if it's a stock stroke RB26 then the .85 T3 Super94 HTA may sound like a weird suggestion (ie, mid-a/r T3 for a big power RB26?) might be the gun thing, they have proven to make BIG power and are a very solid turbo - also not hugely expensive for what they are and this turbo has been proven to work VERY well on a serious spec 4G63, which seem (exhaust side) to have a similar sweet spot to a stock stroke RB26 imho.... they just prefer more compressor vs pressure ratio. I would call this turbo capable of well over 600awkw on a suitably build RB26 on E85/race fuel and respectable response for the madness it is capable of: http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTFPSUPER94&Category_Code=SP. I'd confirm with FP, and also check with them if there actually are other exhaust housing options for it if you would prefer something else.

The GT3794R-HTA is more expensive, though a very reasonable alternative - makes a bit less power than a Super94 HTA though also spools slightly better, and has more turbine housing options and again I believe better suited to a very high flowing 6cyl than the Precision alternative:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/PROD/NTGT3794HTA.html

I have the impression GTPumps.com.au are suppliers for ForcedPerformance turbos, otherwise they can be ordered at the links I provided above - which is how 34GeeTeeTee got his GT3076R-HTA (check the thread out here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/426059-forced-performance-hta-turbos/)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...