Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a strange issue with my RB25DET. It seems to have a weird fluttering/wooshing sound when coming on boost, a lot louder than normal. It seems to build and hold boost ok, maybe a little laggier than usual. I'm thinking maybe a boost leak, but here's the spanner in the works: the weird wooshing sound disappears during medium-hard left turns?? How weird is that? Does anyone know what could cause this issue and why it disappears during left turns only???

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430790-weird-boost-issue-help/
Share on other sites

After the sound got worse I eventually found the problem - broken stud where the dump bolts to the turbo, letting a heap of exhaust through the gap. Now I have a worse situation than a boost leak, the stud is broken inside of the turbo exhaust housing and I need some way to get it out...Preferably without removing the turbo >_>

Trust me - I had the same problem last year... Take your turbo out and take it to a thread doctor or machinest... If you do it yourselves I can guarantee you'll ruin it.

Try removing the turbo yourself - if you need help just post on here and I'm sure you'll get plenty of help!

There are many brands. Just go into any hardware or auto parts store and see what they sell. Loctite do one, as do many other big brands. We use one at work with graphite in it and it seems to work well (although it's a bit messy). I have a can of stuff somewhere that I got when I was working at an exhaust shop that we used to use there which worked well too. If I can find it I'll post up what it is.

There are many brands. Just go into any hardware or auto parts store and see what they sell. Loctite do one, as do many other big brands. We use one at work with graphite in it and it seems to work well (although it's a bit messy). I have a can of stuff somewhere that I got when I was working at an exhaust shop that we used to use there which worked well too. If I can find it I'll post up what it is.

Thanks for the info.

The thing is, I can go and buy another brand, but if it works just as well as WD40, is there any point in paying more for it (if it costs more)? Hopefully the other brands can provide a stronger product, or one that lubricates better.

The graphite stuff sounds good.

Wd40 is only really a water dispersant and thin oil. It has very little in the way of actual lubricating properties. You can find some friction test videos on YouTube. If you search "friction master wd40" on YouTube there is a 2:36 long video of a test between protecta spray (which I've used and it's pretty good) and wd40. Protecta also have a video on YouTube doing the same test with more oils. I know the guy doing the protecta video and he told me about some other lubes that performed well on the test (almost to the level of protecta), but they didn't show them for obvious reasons. They were bicycle chain lubes though, so not much use for anything else.

Fyi, I am in no way affiliated with protecta.

And using some sort of grease or anti-seize paste when installing things certainly makes life easier in the long run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
    • Cheers, yeah it was recently imported, is the actual Nissan not an Infiniti so will have to do some chasing around for parts.    Any ideas if the side skirts from a Q50 would fit on the 400r?
×
×
  • Create New...