Jump to content
SAU Community

V36 Rev Probs, Firmware Update Anyone?

awsam
 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I can't help from here, but you need to get one out and check the manufacturers part number, see if it's a generic Bosch sensor. Most widebands are. They are most definitely available cheaper aftermarket, it just depends if they are sold with the correct plug on the end. You could always crimp your plug to it though...

  • Replies 278
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Colt357
Colt357

I just bought uprev from overseas, will be getting it late next week. I have the same stutter problem when sitting at lights. i will datalog it and send it orsis and see if they can tell whats causing

colin.ssc
colin.ssc

Taking foot off peddle and reapplying thing....that might be another issue altogether. I believe that is the drive by wire issue. When we step on the accelerator, the ECU tellls the TB to open...when

Elcid
Elcid

Guys - Major break through. Went back to my car dealer as Nissan was hesitant in diagnosing the car. They have very little knowledge about cars in my opinion. If the service manual doesn't state it, t

Posted Images

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im finding that part number "new" on ebay and the like for under $200 :S

For some reason Nissan are also trying to charge me for 2x new AFM's @ $396ea.

I wish I had found all this out sooner, the car is almost undrivable now and I think i've run out of time to wait for a cheaper options :S

  • 2 weeks later...
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, for $1,200 at Nissan I get 1x o2 sensor, 1x Air filter, 1x car battery, 1x remote battery.

After everything was put in, a second scan was done and now reports rear pair of o2 sensors fluctuating badly.

They said it could be the sensors, or the cat as both sensors in front are reporting fine now.

Also, the car is mostly better. Has a very slight stutter when taking off from a stopped start, nothing like it was.

I have not tried it cold yet, guess I will find out tomorrow.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

As far as I know the rear o2 sensors are only feedback to the ecu on cat condition, the front pair will do the actual AF signal input. Being a V36 it has proper wideband sensors, so whilst expensive they should read the same on both banks fairly accurately. If Nissan can't see any issues they should be fine. I am fairly confident the ecu disregards the o2 signal until the car is up to operating temp anyway.

I doubt it's the issue, I have always believed it to be the crank sensor, as it is when taking off. I would say the flywheel pickup is right on the sensor's edge. Drop the crank sensor out and have a look if it's dirty at least. 2 minute job, and you are welcome to call me if you need help doing it. Simple job if you have a jack and stands.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh everything I've read says Crank also, but I was having no engine light or error codes. Plus the initial graph showed front B1 o2 was all over the shop. Probably a combination of the two.

They're saying the front two are cycling correctly, but rear two are no longer according to the scan tool graph. Which is why they think either sensor failure or cat problem.

But honestly they need to do a little bit of actual problem sourcing and physically check these parts instead of plugging the scanner in and then going "Graph says this so that's prob what it is"

Any idiot can do that...

I'll have to find someone to do that for me as I don't have anything more than a single jack. Or i'll tell Nissan to do it when they take another look monday.

Elcid Contributor

Elcid

Posted
Posted

Heya Awsam. I read your post with great interest as my 2007 V36 also does the same. I have just purchased it from a car importer. Did replacing the B2 02 help?

On my car, the dealer reset the Japanese fuel values in the ECU via the diagnostic tool and the problem went away. It stopped doing it while driving and when taking off slowly. But alas after 1 week, the problem has reoccurred. I will go back to him and get it rechecked. Will let you know how it goes. Cheers.

Elcid Contributor

Elcid

Posted
Posted

Further update. The recurrence according to my mechanic/dealer is most probably due to the fact that I have changed my Air filters (2X), which were filthy from Japan. I got new ones from Nissan. This might have increased the airflow causing more learnings required by ECU. So we reset the Fuel learned values, gearbox learned values and all other learned values in the same page. Then I took the car for a long drive. The only advice he gave was to try and accelerate hard ..wasn't hard to do. Anyway, I think the problem is gone now. Don't feel it anymore, will post if it recurs.

Colt357 Enthusiast

Colt357

Posted
Posted

I just bought uprev from overseas, will be getting it late next week. I have the same stutter problem when sitting at lights. i will datalog it and send it orsis and see if they can tell whats causing it and also a few more ponies with a tune. My current mods on my car is stillen high flow cats and megan racing cbe

  • Like 1
Elcid Contributor

Elcid

Posted
Posted

Bad news! The problem is back. I'm going back to the dealer today for a full diagnostics. See what he finds.

Also, I noticed that my car stutters at around the 1000rpm mark only and when taking of slowly only. Do you guys experience the same?

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bad news! The problem is back. I'm going back to the dealer today for a full diagnostics. See what he finds.

Also, I noticed that my car stutters at around the 1000rpm mark only and when taking of slowly only. Do you guys experience the same?

My car did this in the beginning, after a few weeks it began doing it at all RPM. Since having one o2 sensor replaced I've found the problem to be much more inconsistent. When taking the little one to school it would always start stuttering at the same stretch of road (roughly 2-3 minutes of driving) now it may do it lightly, or it may do it really bad, some days it now takes up to 15 minutes for the stutter to happen.

Accelerating very hard through it a few times, or taking off from lights very very very slowly makes it go away faster than driving normally.

I'm not sure if changing the second o2 sensor would completely eliminante the problem, i've been meaning to get the car back in but haven't had time.

Elcid Contributor

Elcid

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hmm..wonder what the problem really is, thanks for that info mate.

My car is at Nissan as we speak. They are diagnosing the car. Just rang and they told me that they are sending the diagnostics data to Nissan Japan for a review of the issue. Will post developments.

Edited by Elcid
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Nissan are sending data to Japan, that should fix it. :P

At the end of the day someone needs to pick up a screwdriver and fix the problem. Throwing parts at it, reading consult3 suggested repairs and sending data around isn't diagnosis in my professional opinion and will just leave your wallet empty.

Elcid Contributor

Elcid

Posted
Posted

According to Nissans diagnostic graphs, the torque converter send to be slipping when the issue happens. Changed transmission fluid, but no improvement. They suspected te oil may have thinned. Question, had anyone tried changing our checked their soak plugs? Or had this been overlooked because it is hard to access ?

Colt357 Enthusiast

Colt357

Posted
Posted

used uprev orsis diagnostic system, no error code found. going to re calibrate air/fuel map see if it helps. otherwise i think elcid is right with the slipping torq converter since i havent seen any manual owners have the stutter problem

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have read on G35 driver that someone pulled their AWD fuse and it solved the problem, but left the car in RWD. Is that relevant to us?

http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-engine-exhaust-drivetrain-fi/416579-low-rpm-trans-slipping.html

Comment #15

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...