Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The covers are only the magnet, not the actuator which is behind it. Nissan will want to rebuild the timing chain and tensioner assemblies and replace the cam actuators, this will cost 5-6k or more.

I have found a way to replace the actuators in the VQ25/VQ30 without removal of the engine, but I doubt any mechanic would try such a complex task. Your engine has intake and exhaust actuators which doubles the chances of an issue.

Apparently they think it is not a major job - but off course, seeing i believing, especially when it comes to Nissan.

Cars just back from Nissan. This other branch seems to be very familiar with this problem. From their previous findings, this problem must be software as they have even replaced with a brand new engine on another Skyline v36 and the problem still persists. Put it point blank - THIS IS A NISSAN DESIGN ISSUE.

They also sort of know that there is a software update that can solve this issue, but Nissan Japan won't release to NZ !!

I have read that for the Infinity's in the USA - software update did solve it permanently.

Btw, I have just tried the exhaust relearn procedure and this reduces this problem slightly.

Anyone knows how to update software without Nissan's help?

EXHAUST VALVE TIMING CONTROL LEARNING - Without CONSULT-III

1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Set selector lever to N position (A/T) or neutral position (M/T) and confirm that following electrical or
mechanical loads are not applied.
- Headlamp switch is OFF
- Air conditioner switch is OFF
- Rear defogger switch is OFF
- Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc.
3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds.

Had mine in Nissan today, I gave them a small list of things to check but after they read this thread they decided not to bother further diagnostics.

They think it is a timing issue, or the firmware. One of the staff there has imported the same v36 (still on the boat) and is attempting to get the firmware file from Japan.

I think perhaps the only way I'm going to get this update is to buy a ECU which has already been flashed. A importer I spoke to yesterday says they

have 3x 2008 Sedans comming in 2 weeks and they'd be happy to swap the ecu over for a test.

No clue how to check current version though??

On another note, I turned the car off and unplugged those magnetic retarder sensors once the problem popped up. The problem immediately went away and my car

drove perfectly for the 30 or so meters. I turned it off again, then plugged the sensors back in and the problem was there straight away.

Nissan tell me these sensors only control the advanced position timing (name?) not the crucial timing.

It sounded like a feature the car could live without, but Nissan would not answer the question "Can I drive forever without it?"

Edited by awsam

With an engine light up? I don't think it's wise. Plus you will lose many powerz in the midrange. :P

It is just the cam retarders, are they making noise? If so, can you pinpoint which one is doing it?

Nissan can test and re-tune the cams using Consult3 or 3+, the cams drift around all over the place constantly from my experience, but once they hone in on a degree setting (using the PWM signal to the magnet) they hold it very well. They are self learning to a degree.

Something as simple as the wrong grade of oil could cause these cam issues I suspect, do you know what oil is in it?

I haven't heard any unusual noise, next time it happens I will unplug only one of the sensors and see if that isolates it further.

Nah no clue, what ever oil Wilall Racing use when servicing. But it was doing it well before they serviced it.

I'll have to call them this week and ask about the re-tune, I dare say they'll be very reluctant.

Does anyone know if the ECU needs to be in the car for an upgrade? or can it just be plugged into a power course and flashed? I say this as it may be less trouble to fly to Melb cheap with my ecu and visit Infiniti.

I found a very detailed thread on the 350z exhibiting the exact same issue. Which they confirm is VTC

http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/307878-sputtering-during-warm-up-38.html

Edited by awsam
  • 1 month later...

None yet, still waiting for a response from Infiniti Melb to see if they can get the update.
If not then i'll just have to trade it at a car yard, because there's no hiding the fault so no one would buy it privately :(

Did you ever try cleaning your throttle body?

I've owned a few cars in the past with a similar issue and found the throttle body dirty with carbon deposits and gum.

Works wonders and simple to do.

None yet, still waiting for a response from Infiniti Melb to see if they can get the update.

If not then i'll just have to trade it at a car yard, because there's no hiding the fault so no one would buy it privately :(

If i remember correctly from previous post, you bought this car from a dealer, i would say go back to them and let them trade it in less the normal depreciation of time you have owned it.

If i remember correctly from previous post, you bought this car from a dealer, i would say go back to them and let them trade it in less the normal depreciation of time you have owned it.

Yeh I did in Sydney and drove it back to Adelaide.

Is that something I can actually do? Like by law? I've been meaning to look into how strict lemon laws are. Does it really matter that I've had the car since March?

wow great thread and lots of information.

i think i will hold off on purchasing my v36 sedan until someone confirms with nissan/inifiti regarding a permanent fix for this, rather than just unplugging which may cause long term issues.

Awsam, yes you should be covered under ACCC laws as it is deemed a major fault as it has a problem that would have stopped you from buying it if you'd known about it, and it is unsafe as it can cause accidents at traffic lights when taking off.

http://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/repair-replace-refund

if the dealer doesn't play ball, don't get upset or emotional, just give ACCC a call to lodge a complaint and they will give you advice on what to do next.

wow great thread and lots of information.

i think i will hold off on purchasing my v36 sedan until someone confirms with nissan/inifiti regarding a permanent fix for this, rather than just unplugging which may cause long term issues.

same :)

I'm doing some asking around as well... hopefully we can find a local specialist

just a thought, have you guys tried adjusting your idle RPM when in D higher? such as 1100-1200 instead of 850.

As i noticed alot of autos idle higher than manuals (which are generally 7-900rpm)

as it appears to be happening at low RPM on take off only, unless you guys mean lowish rpm = under 3000rpm..

wow great thread and lots of information.

i think i will hold off on purchasing my v36 sedan until someone confirms with nissan/inifiti regarding a permanent fix for this, rather than just unplugging which may cause long term issues.

Awsam, yes you should be covered under ACCC laws as it is deemed a major fault as it has a problem that would have stopped you from buying it if you'd known about it, and it is unsafe as it can cause accidents at traffic lights when taking off.

http://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/repair-replace-refund

if the dealer doesn't play ball, don't get upset or emotional, just give ACCC a call to lodge a complaint and they will give you advice on what to do next.

This is the way to go, im just surprised you have lived with this problem as long as you have, if it was me i would be there the day i found such faults.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...