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Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


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Thats what happens when you try and put an LS1 in a 33.

nah, that's what happens when you decide 4 weeks in Thailand and 6 weeks in America at a time is more worth while to me then putting money into a Skyline :P

Plus it sat for 12 months waiting for another RB30DET until I scrapped that, sold everything an started going LS1 LOL.

That and then bought another R33... Lol.

Now putting money together for a spot to permanently store and work on them, oh and room to be able to live. LOL

So found a skyline for $3,900. A red one. The same as Zac's, body kit any everything. Not sure if I want it or not haha

Just don't do what chants did and purchase an NA.

car made 245kw @ 25psi on 98, any more timing and it starts to knock lightly in 4th.

maybe needs a little more boost, but cant do only a little more with the current boost controllers minimum duty, but seems to good enough for now.

car made 245kw @ 25psi on 98, any more timing and it starts to knock lightly in 4th.

maybe needs a little more boost, but cant do only a little more with the current boost controllers minimum duty, but seems to good enough for now.

whos car????

wow, almost totaled the 5 series today on my way to work. some t0sser in a ute decided to do an illegal turn just as i was taking a left turn and for some stupid reason i stopped. i should have nailed him, got the whole car resprayed and claimed a little whiplash and emotional damage etc

grrrr @ reflexes.

hard to believe up until a few days ago i hadn't ever been involved in an accident. now they are aiming for me.

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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