Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know lots has been covered on this subject but i need exact parts to supply my unopened rb26 to handle 300-330KW at rear wheels , i do have my opinion but maybe some stuff is ok from standard GTR and doesn't need to be upgraded . i dont wanna spent any extra $$ for now because i am looking to build 30/26 in near future . Just need your advice to get most out of my Turbos with not going crazy on upgrade list

Got Turbos Garret-9's no actuators

list of stuff i have already :

R32 GTR ecu and nistune

Boost controller

Apexi suction kit

here are list of stuff it might need to be upgrade ?

1) Dumps ? ( car is R33 GTR)

2) Front Pipe 70 into 80mm?

3) exhaust 3" or 3.5" ? (No cat will be used)

4) injectors?

5) Fuel rail ?

6) FPR - ?

7) Fuel pump ?

8) Mafs ?

9) Cams ? if yes what size is the best?

10) stock actuators can be used on -9 turbos? or should i change it for hks ?

11) Port Match Manifolds?

So if i am missing something just add, or if i wrote something not needed to be upgraded remove

Below is the picture of exhaust , your opinion its 3 or 3.5?

post-58744-0-39686500-1378314411_thumb.jpg

Edited by avoiee
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431379-upgrading-garret-2860-9/
Share on other sites

Don't need fuel rail or injectors and cams are a waste of money in your set up, even the standard airbox with a paper filter is perfect

Parts needed

-9s

Cam gears

Ecu

Injectors

Fuel pump

Clutch

Full exhaust

Boost controller

That is everything required to make 300-330 with a standard engine

Everything that was said above.

I run stock 33 dumps

1000cc injectors

Link ecu

Bosch 044

3-3.5" front pipe

4" cat

3" cat back (soon to be 3.5)

Cam gears

E85 @ 20psi = 340kw

stock Mafs? and if i swap my stock actuators on -9's will it be ok? wont hurt spool up time? i've read some were ajusting actuators helps in spull or something like that

What clutch are you using? NIsmo Single clutch should be ok?.

port matching manifolds?

Don't need fuel rail or injectors and cams are a waste of money in your set up, even the standard airbox with a paper filter is perfect

Parts needed

-9s

Cam gears

Ecu

Injectors

Fuel pump

Clutch

Full exhaust

Boost controller

That is everything required to make 300-330 with a standard engine

so i'll just add cam gears , does it has to be Big name brand one?

So dumps, fuel rail, frp, Cams, Mafs - all these are ok with my set up

also going down this path in Nov - i was advised to put in tomie pon cam shafts to provide a more fatter mid range. R34 GTR.

Car already has stage 1 stuff done apart from turbo's and running Map sensors with HKS F-Con.

15+ year old RB26, I wouldn't go over 300 rwkW's.

i know lots has been covered on this subject but i need exact parts to supply my unopened rb26 to handle 300-330KW at rear wheels , i do have my opinion but maybe some stuff is ok from standard GTR and doesn't need to be upgraded . i dont wanna spent any extra $$ for now because i am looking to build 30/26 in near future . Just need your advice to get most out of my Turbos with not going crazy on upgrade list

Got Turbos Garret-9's no actuators

list of stuff i have already :

R32 GTR ecu and nistune

Boost controller

Apexi suction kit

here are list of stuff it might need to be upgrade ?

1) Dumps ? ( car is R33 GTR) - OEM Dumps should be ok

2) Front Pipe 70 into 80mm?

3) exhaust 3" or 3.5" ? (No cat will be used) - Either one is fine

4) injectors? - No need for 300 rwkW's

5) Fuel rail ? - No need for 300 rwkW's

6) FPR - ? - No need for 300 rwkW's

7) Fuel pump ? - No need for 300 rwkW's unless it needs replacing

8) Mafs ? - No need for 300 rwkW's, just run standard setup with Nistune

9) Cams ? if yes what size is the best? - Cam Shafts? = No need for 300 rwkW's - You might want to look into a set of Cam Gears for extra tunability

10) stock actuators can be used on -9 turbos? or should i change it for hks ? - Either way, doesn't hurt

11) Port Match Manifolds? - No need for 300 rwkW's

So if i am missing something just add, or if i wrote something not needed to be upgraded remove

Below is the picture of exhaust , your opinion its 3 or 3.5? - Ash's (R31Nismoid) general rule of thumb = 300 rwkW's = 3" exhaust / 350 rwkW's = 3.5" exhaust.

I would definitely replace the 15 yo fuel pump and injectors. One fails, engine goes lean engine goes boom

True!

In that case (depending on the condition of his Fuel Pump / Injectors) replace them if need.

In future, if he's going RB26/30 and reaching for big power, might as well go aftermarket / larger injectors.

Don't need fuel rail or injectors and cams are a waste of money in your set up, even the standard airbox with a paper filter is perfect

Parts needed

-9s

Cam gears

Ecu

Injectors

Fuel pump

Clutch

Full exhaust

Boost controller

That is everything required to make 300-330 with a standard engine

oops just realized I made a mistake in the first line, it was meant to say "you don't need to change the rail or the regulator"

so i'll just add cam gears , does it has to be Big name brand one?

So dumps, fuel rail, frp, Cams, Mafs - all these are ok with my set up

any cam gears are fine pick ones you like and yes those parts are fine

OP. what's your goals with the RB 30? You may find you're doing things twice here for no need.

Turbo and fuel setup for the big engine please.

Goal is what ever HKS T04Z can throw on it , 30/26 project for me is 1.5-2 year build , already got spear rb26, donor for head , sump and intake plenum, need rb30 now from Dubai , planing to buy one in November when i go there , around 300-500$ as i heard + all bunch of forged stuff etc list is huge . So that is why i just dont want to spent any extra penny on current engine upgrade etc. Want to have good relible 300-320wkw gtr with stock like response until i finish my new 30/26 on side .

Thanks To everyone for input and your opinions

Must do list is so far

ecu

boost controller

fuel pump 044

injectors (will do ID1000+ so i can use it for future build)

front pipe

Cam Gears

if mafs wont do its job then cheapest to go is Ford Lightning and messing around with suction compartment

Clutch - dont know what to use , maybe Nismo Single clutch with 1050kg pressure can work for me?

Call NPC up mate they'll sort a top clutch out for you. Just tell them your setup and plans and they'll sort you a top drivable clutch that'll hold big power. Other option is call Jim Berry up and give him the same info and he will custom make you a clutch.

If your set on a Nismo go a twin plate super copper mix. Piggaz or R31Nismoid will be able to possibly elaborate more on this clutch. As they've used and still currently use the Nismo?

Josh

Re the clutch. Don't bother with a single plate now, you will have to upgrade later on with the T04Z. Just straight to a Nismo twin plate competition model and forget about it.

agree save paying for a clutch twice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...