Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 89 models can have some pretty nice mods already on them with the 15yr rule (bonus).... Other than that I don't know the difference amongst GTR's.... I know my GTS-t (93) is differerent to my GTR (89) in things like the controls for mirrors etc but i don't know if that's just 'cause it's a GTS-t vs. GTR?... Also the GTS-t had heaters in the mirrors where as the GTR didn't?... (again i don't know if this is the age or the GTS-t vs. GTR thing?...)

i bought a vspec recently and it comes with brmebos and the extras.... i guess the only real advantage of getting a 93-94 model is the kms travelled. And with the early ceramic turbos on the R32 they normally fault at around 100K. So if it is around that and they still original turbos... u gunna expect to maybe replace or upgrade your turbos for the early GTR's... Its kinda common knowledge. Its good if u want to put better turbos on and plan to do some work to the car.. spending $20-$25 grand.... and then have a few more dollars to upgrade some worn parts will give u a very nice GTR.

there was 1 factory recall for the 89 GTR's, and there were a few minor changes.

the most significant of these changes are (S1 = pre 1991 August model, S2 = post):

Side doors

S2 - Additional Side intrusion bar in Door

Projector headlight

S1 - Low:H3C(55W) High:H3(85W)

S2 - Illumination angle widened, Low:H1(55W), Hi:H3(85W)

Ignition coil

S1 - Carbon contact point

S2 - Spring contact point

So change your ignition and put a intrusion bar in your door (you have to for compliance anyway) and you'll be fine.

expect to pay up to 700,000Y for an ordinary 1989 model. Pay around 1,000,000Y for one that will put a smile on your face for a few months after you get it. At the end of the day you get what you pay for. This whole myth that Japs can underprice them is silly. If the kms seem too low its coz it is and most probably has been wound back, not coz japs don't drive much. Always insist on a car with the most amount of logs on it, one that has been serviced at a regular nissan dealer (they ahve a special book the fill out n stamp).

Check if the timing belt has been changed, it has a sticker on the radiator fan cover with the date and/or kms left before the next change. Check this with the kms done at the last service (NOT the odometer). For a 15 yr old car you should expect the timing belt to have been changed.

Check if its had its mandatory 10 year service check. Also make sure the car is currently registered in japan prior to purchase.

Take the necessary precautions and you'll be fine. Also make sure you have about 4k on hand after the car arrives for emergencies/unforseen expenditures. They may not happen, but you don't wanna be stuc with no money left once the thing is here and you get stuck with a customs holding fee because your import approval didn't come back in time etc.

  • 5 months later...

I think mid way through 93 the clutch went from a push type to a pull type clutch.

The only advantage of buying a later model skyline too is that it's a couple of years younger, but that doesn't mean anything because most get a thrashing more than others.

Some (I only said some) of the Aussie delivered models had problems with the bores or block cracking (bad production batch?) especially when they were modified.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...