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Help buying R32 GTR


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Hey guys, looking at buying a R32 GTR, was wondering you think if its worth paying the extra for a 92/93 model as opposed to the much cheaper 89 models that are now poping up everywhere. Do the newer models have more options? What are they?

Thanks for any help guys

Cheers

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every thought of buying one dats damaged and fixing the body work??

there are some going around now for about the price your looking at, i dont know the difference but i picked up a 94 mod for just under 33 not too long ago

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The 89 models can have some pretty nice mods already on them with the 15yr rule (bonus).... Other than that I don't know the difference amongst GTR's.... I know my GTS-t (93) is differerent to my GTR (89) in things like the controls for mirrors etc but i don't know if that's just 'cause it's a GTS-t vs. GTR?... Also the GTS-t had heaters in the mirrors where as the GTR didn't?... (again i don't know if this is the age or the GTS-t vs. GTR thing?...)

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Except the later models (or was it the VSpec) that had the Brembo's where as the rest have standard Nissan Brakes? (same as the R33 GTS-t ???)

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i bought a vspec recently and it comes with brmebos and the extras.... i guess the only real advantage of getting a 93-94 model is the kms travelled. And with the early ceramic turbos on the R32 they normally fault at around 100K. So if it is around that and they still original turbos... u gunna expect to maybe replace or upgrade your turbos for the early GTR's... Its kinda common knowledge. Its good if u want to put better turbos on and plan to do some work to the car.. spending $20-$25 grand.... and then have a few more dollars to upgrade some worn parts will give u a very nice GTR.

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there was 1 factory recall for the 89 GTR's, and there were a few minor changes.

the most significant of these changes are (S1 = pre 1991 August model, S2 = post):

Side doors

S2 - Additional Side intrusion bar in Door

Projector headlight

S1 - Low:H3C(55W) High:H3(85W)

S2 - Illumination angle widened, Low:H1(55W), Hi:H3(85W)

Ignition coil

S1 - Carbon contact point

S2 - Spring contact point

So change your ignition and put a intrusion bar in your door (you have to for compliance anyway) and you'll be fine.

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expect to pay up to 700,000Y for an ordinary 1989 model. Pay around 1,000,000Y for one that will put a smile on your face for a few months after you get it. At the end of the day you get what you pay for. This whole myth that Japs can underprice them is silly. If the kms seem too low its coz it is and most probably has been wound back, not coz japs don't drive much. Always insist on a car with the most amount of logs on it, one that has been serviced at a regular nissan dealer (they ahve a special book the fill out n stamp).

Check if the timing belt has been changed, it has a sticker on the radiator fan cover with the date and/or kms left before the next change. Check this with the kms done at the last service (NOT the odometer). For a 15 yr old car you should expect the timing belt to have been changed.

Check if its had its mandatory 10 year service check. Also make sure the car is currently registered in japan prior to purchase.

Take the necessary precautions and you'll be fine. Also make sure you have about 4k on hand after the car arrives for emergencies/unforseen expenditures. They may not happen, but you don't wanna be stuc with no money left once the thing is here and you get stuck with a customs holding fee because your import approval didn't come back in time etc.

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  • 5 months later...

I think mid way through 93 the clutch went from a push type to a pull type clutch.

The only advantage of buying a later model skyline too is that it's a couple of years younger, but that doesn't mean anything because most get a thrashing more than others.

Some (I only said some) of the Aussie delivered models had problems with the bores or block cracking (bad production batch?) especially when they were modified.

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