Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anyone installed one of these and do I need to modify the dump pipe?? http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawaturbochargerbolton3antisurgenissanrb20detrb25det8cm10cm.aspx that's the link for that turbo. any help would be appreciated

I'd say yes (going from the pics). But read the thread Scott has posted as its very useful.

Until it's actually released and more pics on the site its hard to tell. I would say 95% chance it should work as a "bolt-on".

that don't really answer my question dude

Yes it does, dude.

If you roll back a few pages (between 260 and 270 IIRC?) you will find detailed discussion about those turbos. If you read the last 30 or 40 pages of that thread (OMG READ THAT MUCH?!?!?!?!) you will find all the known knowledge and theory this forum possess regarding that particular type of Kando turbo.

Otherwise I can spoon feed you: "heeeeeerrreee comes the aaeeeroopplaaannneee :) opennn wiiiiideee", YES it will bolt on without modification. If you have a split dump you would want to change to a bell mouth just in case the divider doesn't fit as good as stock. Bell mouth are always better regardless.

Please read and use the search function next time.

Yes it does, dude.

If you roll back a few pages (between 260 and 270 IIRC?) you will find detailed discussion about those turbos. If you read the last 30 or 40 pages of that thread (OMG READ THAT MUCH?!?!?!?!) you will find all the known knowledge and theory this forum possess regarding that particular type of Kando turbo.

Otherwise I can spoon feed you: "heeeeeerrreee comes the aaeeeroopplaaannneee :) opennn wiiiiideee", YES it will bolt on without modification. If you have a split dump you would want to change to a bell mouth just in case the divider doesn't fit as good as stock. Bell mouth are always better regardless.

Please read and use the search function next time.

Flame on...

Now that I re-read it, it wont bolt-on 100% as you are selecting the 3" cover, stock intake wont stretch that much. You'll need to find the 2.4" option or do a custom 3" intake. Though if you're changing the turbo to a kando, no doubt your planning on upping the boost, running a z32 (which is 80mm diameter) so the stock intake will need to be changed anyway right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...