Jump to content
SAU Community

Fmic Install - Diy Or Not?

Pedestrian

By Pedestrian,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pedestrian Rookie

Pedestrian

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Have a FMIC kit ready to go on my 33 gtst, been meaning to give installation a go but having a hard time finding enough free time to get it done.

Been reading a fair bit on install guides and the like, but considering paying someone else to install it for me since i would have to buy necessary tools like die grinder etc. to do the job properly (not keen on going anywhere near my front bumper with an angle grinder) - and money would probably be better spent on install.

Anyone who's paid for install have any idea what's reasonable for a FMIC install, or even anyone in Perth on here keen on doing it?

Or is it really that easy it's worth doing DIY?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432241-fmic-install-diy-or-not/
Share on other sites
MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
Posted

i did mine myself, JJR return flow type, i bought a rotary tool from bunnings to cut the front bumper which was pretty easy once i got the hang of it, the bits can be easy to snap if you are learning...

i wasnt comfortable cutting the reo bar and so got an exhaust shop to do it, so only really ended up costing under a hundred, and i have used the rotary tool for other things, so found it worth buying...

have no idea how much someone would charge but it took me 2-3 hours, obv first time and taking it slowly, and extra slow on the front bar(cutting bits away slowly) it really is an easy thing to do...

Pedestrian Rookie

Pedestrian

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok cheers, mine is the kit that goes up both sides so will need to cut a 3" hole for it (have this already - dont want to be like my mate who cut a rectangle with an angle grinder -.-)

Will give it a crack and see how I go what was this rotary tool called, roughly how much was it?

MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
Posted

what was this rotary tool called, roughly how much was it?

like a dremel just diff brand i went with ozito, allows you to cut plastic and stuff, if you get one just becareful if you cut too slow i think if causes the plastic to heat up and melt a bit, but too fast and you break the bit, they give you heaps so i just learnt...

http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-170w-42-piece-rotary-tool-kit_p6290175

thats the one i got, and yeah like scotty said, i went with a return flow type so i didnt have to cut a hole in the body, i know cutting the reo bar is defectable, but at least its fixable also its hidden a little

  • Like 1
MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeah you only really have to take off a small triangle on either side of the bottom part of the reo bar for the cooler, cutting of any part of the body is defectable as far as i know, its obv something you cant hide when theres a hole in front of the fuse panel area, like i said if you get defected for the reo bar, you can take it off and replace with an untouched one....

Edited by MatthewT85
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
Posted

yeah you only really have to take off a small triangle on either side of the bottom part of the reo bar for the cooler, cutting of any part of the body is defectable as far as i know, its obv something you cant hide when theres a hole in front of the fuse panel area, like i said if you get defected for the reo bar, you can take it off and replace with an untouched one....

I looped my piping underneath the intercooler and returned it to the stock pipes on the right side of the engine bay - i still had to cut out of the chassis but it's don't think its in an obvious place!

skylineplumbing Newbie

skylineplumbing

Posted
Posted

hi there, not sure where to post posts I just started this account

but im having trouble with my new fmic.

ive got two pictures but don't know how to up load it..

my issue is my new after market intercooler kit/piping did not come with a nipple for the boost hose or whatever it is too go in.

now im getting mixed feed back from other people saying this and that. could someone please help me out or tell me where to post this thank you very much.

Michael.

there is two stock inter pipes

one has the standard nipple on it and that close to the throttle body

and the other pipe which is below that pipe runs into the turbo?

now I have to install a nipple on my new intercooler pipe do I

A.. put it on the top piping which is the closest to the throttle body but on the intercooler piping

B.. the intercooler piping coming of the turbz. thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      No no, sorry I think I made you misunderstand. I have this Tee as well as the lines that go from there. What I am missing is the banjo bolt that connects this line (OEM turbo oil supply line) To this hole, this line is mounted on the turbo and reaches around it so you have easy access the oil and water supply being rerouted to this dual banjo port in the front. like this
    • sunsetR33
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Nothing at the moment as previously there was a crappy braided line going from engine block directly to the turbo. I have bought a used OEM hardline for the turbo oil supply, which goes from the engine block to the marked hole. I don't have any of the OEM banjo bolts for oil except the one at the block.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This is the tee No specs on the page I grabbed it from, out of stock there anyway. But it kinda looks like a 1mm pitch. Would not think it's going to be 0.75mm pitch.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See above.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, I'm with you now. The outlet of the tee that is banjo'd into the block. Dunno what it is, will have a scratch around. The M11 question is.....messy. The minor diameter of an M11x1.0 male thread is 9.917mm. This is smaller than the minor diameter of a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 10.08mm). The M11 major is 11mm. That's smaller than the major on a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 0.4375" or 11.1mm) so an M11x1 bolt should pass on the major side. The pitch of a -24 thread is 1.058mm, which is really close to the M11x1, so it should go in at least several turns. I would expect M11x1 to be loose in a 7/16"-24 UNS, at least until enough thread are engaged to make it stop screwing in, if that can happen. Probably wouldn't happen on such a short bolt as you're looking at on the oil tee. Keep in mind that 7/16"-24 is NOT a standard/typical 7/16" thread. Standard is 20. That's the UNF or fine thread. -24 is really fine. I imagine that Garrett chose -24 for the turbo housing oil inlet to get the number of threads engaged up. I would not expect Nissan to have an imperial (UNF, etc) thread on that tee. I would expect it to be metric (if it is a bolt thread) or BSP (actually the Japanese equivalent of BSP) if it is a pipe thread. Given that it's a banjo, it's going to be a bolt thread. If it looks like an 11mm will go in there, then 11mm seems likely. It is very possible that some clown has stuffed that thread by trying to jam some imperial "near equivalent" into it, perhaps with those hoses of yours. Got verniers? Measure up the threads on the hoses.
×
×
  • Create New...