Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would walk into an exhaust shop or performance workshop carrying that turbo and exhaust kit and ask to buy sufficient suitable fasteners to hold it all together. The dump is usually held on to the turbo outlet with a mixture of bolts and a couple of studs (due to lack of access to get bolts through). The dump onto the down/front pipe will want decent fasteners that can take the heat. (Same with the turbo-dump fasteners for that matter, plus you want to have decent dome washers or locking fasteners or lock tabs or something to stop them coming loose and falling off).

That "blow off valve" is not a BOV, it is a wastegate, which you won't need if you swap back to standard turbo.

Your question marked blue hose elbow needs to be replaced with the original cast alloy crossover pipe, if that is what your new cooler piping kit is intended to hook up with. The cross over pipe also has the point where you put the BOV, plus it has some tapping points used for connecting parts of the emissions gear. If you put a factory BOV onto the factory cross over, you'll also need to put in the pipework to take the BOV outlet back to the turbo inlet.

I tend to agree with the other guys here. You would be better off getting the stuff you have on the car working than trying to go back to stock. Too many niggly things you need to do it right.

The wheels issue is best solved by pissing them off and fitting either stockies or aftermarket ones that actually fit. There is very little reason to use spacers to make the wrong wheels fit beyond appearance/fashion, and cars should not be made to look in a particular way at the expense of functionality. To do so is to not masculine.

Edited by GTSBoy

Also keep in mind that spacers for your wheels are illegal and defectable

Not sure why others on here are even suggesting you use them when other options are out there

edit. point has been made and discussed.

^^ this! get someone (any furkn one!) who can sort this for you

You are trying to use a combo of stock and aftermarket parts(some good and some not) and trying to make it work for you

The way you are approaching this is going to end in tears and an empty wallet

You really don't listen to anything I have tried to tell you do you...GL with it champ....you'll need it :thumbsup:

Sorry, couldn't get a good look at the object as it was under my manifolds and i'm new to turbos/ wastegates, it looked totally different to the stock one.

I would walk into an exhaust shop or performance workshop carrying that turbo and exhaust kit and ask to buy sufficient suitable fasteners to hold it all together. The dump is usually held on to the turbo outlet with a mixture of bolts and a couple of studs (due to lack of access to get bolts through). The dump onto the down/front pipe will want decent fasteners that can take the heat. (Same with the turbo-dump fasteners for that matter, plus you want to have decent dome washers or locking fasteners or lock tabs or something to stop them coming loose and falling off).

That "blow off valve" is not a BOV, it is a wastegate, which you won't need if you swap back to standard turbo.

Your question marked blue hose elbow needs to be replaced with the original cast alloy crossover pipe, if that is what your new cooler piping kit is intended to hook up with. The cross over pipe also has the point where you put the BOV, plus it has some tapping points used for connecting parts of the emissions gear. If you put a factory BOV onto the factory cross over, you'll also need to put in the pipework to take the BOV outlet back to the turbo inlet.

I tend to agree with the other guys here. You would be better off getting the stuff you have on the car working than trying to go back to stock. Too many niggly things you need to do it right.

The wheels issue is best solved by pissing them off and fitting either stockies or aftermarket ones that actually fit. There is very little reason to use spacers to make the wrong wheels fit beyond appearance/fashion, and cars should not be made to look in a particular way at the expense of functionality. To do so is to not masculine.

thank you for the information, it was very helpful. i might take everything i have into a shop and see what they can do.

Heres a video on how it runs for anyone that's intrested:

[uploading]

Edited by iTwix

Agreed, its like he is missing all the advice thrown his way

i'm listening to a lot of information. I came into this thread without knowing any of the fuctions of the parts i had, now i know exactly what they do and exactly what i need to achive the build.

i apreciate all comments negative or positive

i'm listening to a lot of information. I came into this thread without knowing any of the fuctions of the parts i had, now i know exactly what they do and exactly what i need to achive the build.

i apreciate all comments negative or positive

and we appreciate your thread ....you know, for the larfs it has brought us

i hope you get it going one way or another coz it actually looks like a nice 33 ... :thumbsup:

dave your a kent. but i love ya.

mate. seriouslsy. you are not listening.

put down your tolls, wallet, shitty parts. ask for a pm from someone close to you. call them. let them look. write down what they tell you needs to happen. do it.

pull farkin skids farken.

dave your a kent. but i love ya.

mate. seriouslsy. you are not listening.

put down your tolls, wallet, shitty parts. ask for a pm from someone close to you. call them. let them look. write down what they tell you needs to happen. do it.

pull farkin skids farken.

i've had 2 people from jap car clubs to come have a look at it, and i've taken it to various performance shops recommended by others.

what you need is some under bonnet pics of a stock standard engine bay then go search for the parts, quite simple really

im returning mine to stock and will take some pics for you..

some more pieces to your puzzle

post-70965-0-60560400-1380155429_thumb.jpg

post-70965-0-82240600-1380155451_thumb.jpg

Edited by AngryRB

UPDATE: just blew the old turbo, defiantly rejoicing over my decision to buy stock turbo. Glad i didn't throw on fuel rails and try to tune that setup, like some suggested haha.

Question: can i limp a blown turbo around if i stay off boost for a week?(no smoke yet)

Edited by iTwix

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...