Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Never tried tungsten on stainless

I'm using Milwaukee ones at the moment and they are unreal for going through alloy but any bi-metal ones would be fine don't even try to go through stainless with them

No offense. But you are doing it wrong if you cant do stainless sheet with a bi metal hole saw

It really depends on the grade and quality of stainless, and how good the holesaw is. It's a good way to damage your arm if it isn't in a drill press, as the kick on a holesaw when it grabs with a hand drill is harsh.

I have new drill bits here that just polish the stainless, due to the stainless being harder than the drill bit. Cobalt drill sets are definitely worth the coin.

Tired it a few times on a couple heat shields I made for vls with the gate welded on top of the manifold and doing one cut with the bi-metal hole saw killed it yeah I got through but destroyed a $80 holesaw in the process much easier doing it with the hydraulic punch if your cutting through sheet less then a mm yeah go ahead but 2mm plus your just throughing your money away

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

We were in a pinch once and use a builders wood saw to cut some alloy intercooler pipe. worked so well we have done it again. Cuts fast and straight, much straighter than a hack saw anyway haha

If you use a bit of wd40 or light machine oil as lube, a carbide tipped blade on a timber cutting drop saw works perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...