Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone

Can anyone confirm this:

Front 4.0 kg/mm
Rear 5.0 kg/mm
(source: GTR mag)
Usually the front is more than the rear, but in this case, it isn't?
I'm trying to choose springs to get for my new setup, and just wanted to know a few things about the factory setup.
Can any one help out?
Thanks

Yes on GTR's the Nissan/Nismo stuff is softer at the front than the rear other than the R32 Nismo which is the other way around.

Most of the other aftermarket gear isnt because they usually dont much bother with tailoring their gear to individual cars or realise that most people drive the things in a straight line anyway where you do want softer rears.

Nismo S tune:

5300S-RSR45
Nissan - Skyline GT-R - BNR34 - F:6.0 R:6.7
It is that way to help reduce understeer. Ofcourse depending on your objective/tyres/camber/sway bar/attessa/power output you may choose differently. But generally GTR's are, handling wise, horrible understeering shtboxes and you end up using every trick in the book to try and make the nose heavy buckets turn.
Edited by djr81

Thanks for the reply - I might get aftermarket gear to match the factory balance. Does anyone this this is a bad idea?

I'll either stick with 4 Front 5 Rear, or maybe 5 front 6 rear.

Its just mostly going to be a street car so I don't want it to be too rough - our roads are shit.

IIRC SK used to recommend that you match the spring rates to the weight balance, ie if its 60:40 front rear then the spring rates are also 60:40 front rear, and you fix the understeer with sway bar rates (if possible). Maybe a middle road between the two approaches using even rates would be the best compromise? The trade off is ride/handling (weight balanced spring rates) vs better front/rear grip balance (stiffer than weight balanced on the rear).

My 32 GTR is 8/6 spring rates with the front sway bar of full soft and the rear sway bar on full hard. Still understeers.....maybe i should try the Nismo understeer fix and get softer springs in the front.

I was thinking of sticking to the factory spring rates, and lowering the car. Because the car will be lower I figured it would be slightly more rough/rigid than standard anyway.

But I will look into the weight distribution of the car and see what suits it best.

Going to go for a set of Tein Monoflex, and the new G Sensor/active auto dampening. Just need to know what spring rate I want because I won't be racing it much at all and want it to have a nice ride on the street.

Does anyone have any suggestions for spring rates?

As I said, I won't be racing it much at all, its mainly for the street. And I have to be mindful about my back, as since some last retarded piece of shit ran a red light and hit me, my back isn't too flash.

I'd like a firm ride, but not rough as shit lol.

Found this:

This responsiveness is even more amazing considering the Skyline's uneven weight-distribution of 57% in front and 43% in the rear. Usually a layout like this would be expected to be dominated by understeer, but due to ATTESA's intervention, the car is given a more sportive, rather oversteering character. Be careful though, pushing the car to far to its limits may result in a sudden loss of grip at the rear wheels - partly because of the uncompromising Bridgestone tires.

Does anyone have any suggestions for spring rates?

As I said, I won't be racing it much at all, its mainly for the street. And I have to be mindful about my back, as since some last retarded piece of shit ran a red light and hit me, my back isn't too flash.

I'd like a firm ride, but not rough as shit lol.

If it is just for the road I would reckon something about 5kg/mm is of the right order.

Found this:

This responsiveness is even more amazing considering the Skyline's uneven weight-distribution of 57% in front and 43% in the rear. Usually a layout like this would be expected to be dominated by understeer, but due to ATTESA's intervention, the car is given a more sportive, rather oversteering character. Be careful though, pushing the car to far to its limits may result in a sudden loss of grip at the rear wheels - partly because of the uncompromising Bridgestone tires.

Yes alot of sh!t was written by people who dont know what they were talking about. The %'s are right but the rest is nonsense. You need to differentiate between what happens when you are off or on the throttle. Off throttle the things understeer. On power they respond to however you have set up the 4WD system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...