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you need a RB20/RB30 oil filter fitting, and 2 bungs to block the heater hoses under the plenum. it's just 4 12mm bolts to swap them over, but it will probably be a pita to do in the car.

you need a RB20/RB30 oil filter fitting, and 2 bungs to block the heater hoses under the plenum. it's just 4 12mm bolts to swap them over, but it will probably be a pita to do in the car.

Cheers Ben.

Engine is out so may aswell be done while it is in a million bits. Can I get the fitting from Repco or do I need a second hand part?

not sure if repco stock them, I had a spare 20 laying around that i got mine from. should be able to find someone partsing out a 20/30 cheap to get the part. I replaced the paper gasket with 3 bond too.

if you aren't going to relocate the filter pick up a stagea oil filter block, it has a bit of an angle on it that makes it easier to get the filter on and off. if you are just fitting up a relocator it doesn't matter, just grab a 20 or 30 one.

  • 4 weeks later...

I forgot about that, all the cars i've done it to have oil temp fittings in the sump, and decent oil pressure gauges. The RB26 has a oil pressure sensor the same place as the RB30, but it has an additional oil pressure switch (for the light) on the sammich plate. Cause the sump is so thick in a 26, you can just drill and tap the sump to fit the oil temp sensor (sump has to come off), I did it to a 26 without any problems.

Edited by sav man

Sorry I remembered wrong. The RB26 has a spot for a pressure sensor in the same place as an RB30, it's just got a bolt in it to block it. Take the bolt out and put the sensor in

I havent had time to look properly (got to love shutdowns) but the HKS oil cooler may have enough spots on the mount to plug in either the temperature sender unit or the pressure switch.

There is another thread elsewhere that mentions pressure relief valves and this reference:

"but you have to use a toyota filter (z418) or any with a relief valve in it)"

  • 1 month later...
Heya guys,

I've recently done this when building my 26.

I bought a thread adapter from Raw Brokerage for a few bucks on top of a bigger order so I could mount the GREDDY sandwich plate directly to the block (so no RB30 housing).

I then machined up some alloy plugs for the cut down water lines.

GREDDY have some pre-tapped aluminium plugs for oil temp/pressure senders. I use an aftermarket mechanical gauge, but if you wanted to fit an OEM sender unit, it might be too bulky and hit the engine mount if the sandwich plate is clocked similar to mine. I overlooked this step when purchasing the plate and machined the blank GREDDY plugs for the required threads.

Job done.

If you want to run the factory sender, you could have a short -3 or -4 braided hose (or cheaper Pirtec equivalent) made up so you can fit the OEM sender anywhere (I do this on Lotus' as the MoTeC senders don't fit the factory location nicely)

You can also buy a straight brass fitting with a female thread off the side allowing an OEM and aftermarket sender to tee off the same feed.

Hope it helped.

Mark :)

PS: Factory R32 oil filter won't fit the GREDDY sandwich plate (can diameter too large), R33> filters will work, I use Ryco Z442.

post-28560-0-01255200-1387341315_thumb.jpg

So you fitted the sandwich plate straight onto the block - here?:

post-5134-0-25316900-1387344837_thumb.jpg

ALso for what it is worth I have the same problem finding a location for the oil pressure switch. The HKS plate is different to the GReddy one:

post-5134-0-25365200-1387345031_thumb.jpg

I was going to try a 45 NPT female to male elbow to get it out of the way but havent checked for correct thread type/sizes or to see if it will work. But yes the biggest issue is getting the switch out the way. The temp sender is tiny and isnt a problem.

So you fitted the sandwich plate straight onto the block - here?:

attachicon.gifCopyofphoto4.jpg

ALso for what it is worth I have the same problem finding a location for the oil pressure switch. The HKS plate is different to the GReddy one:

attachicon.gifGTRoil.jpg

I was going to try a 45 NPT female to male elbow to get it out of the way but havent checked for correct thread type/sizes or to see if it will work. But yes the biggest issue is getting the switch out the way. The temp sender is tiny and isnt a problem.

Aren't those kits expensive as sin!?

Which the HKS or GReddy ones? I bought my HKS years ago. Dont remember it being too much coin but that may have changed.

See photos.

First one is the front of the HKS sandwich. Note the take offs are at 90 degrees not 45.

post-5134-0-22752600-1387422722_thumb.jpg

Second is the back showing the extension piece to fir the oil pressure switch and (unseen) the 90 degree elbow that fits into that. THe oil tempeerature sender is to the front of the car. Both are on the underside of the plate.

post-5134-0-38439900-1387422827_thumb.jpg

So you fitted the sandwich plate straight onto the block - here?:

attachicon.gifCopyofphoto4.jpg

Yep, direct to block with the following part:

http://www.rawbrokerage.com/raw-brokerage-oil-filter-stud-direct-to-block-rb20-rb25-rb26/

I'm sure you could get the stud elsewhere, but I already had an order from them so I tacked it on.

Mark :)

Which the HKS or GReddy ones? I bought my HKS years ago. Dont remember it being too much coin but that may have changed.

See photos.

First one is the front of the HKS sandwich. Note the take offs are at 90 degrees not 45.

attachicon.gifDSC_0087.jpg

Second is the back showing the extension piece to fir the oil pressure switch and (unseen) the 90 degree elbow that fits into that. THe oil tempeerature sender is to the front of the car. Both are on the underside of the plate.

attachicon.gifDSC_0101.jpg

The HKS ones!

I am looking at a kit and they are roughly all around 1K

Might just make my own.

Heya NEE-SAN,

I did a kit for a 33 GTR recently with good components (Setrab 34 row, Speedflow, GREDDY thermo plate) and it came up around $800 fitted from memory.

Definitely cheaper to DIY.

Mark :)

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