Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Idling Problem

seventhirteen

By seventhirteen,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

seventhirteen Enthusiast

seventhirteen

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone could shed some light on an idling problem im having.

So the car in question is a 1994 R32 GTR V-SPEC II. From what I can see the car has a cat back HKS super dragger exhaust, APEXI pods, HKS EVC boost controller and turbo timer. When I got the car the AFMs were unplugged, an issue I would also would like to sort out (my guess is aftermarket ECU, but I was told it was stock when I bought it so I dont know).

So the issue is, soon after purchasing the car I straight away noticed a issue with idle first starting out as what seems to be just a slight misfire on idle ( the revs dont actually drop, the car just shakes alot but is stable around just below 1k rpm). Now when the car is like this and I turn it off and soon after turn it back on it hunts at around 500-200 rpm or just straight stalls. It usually just stalls but if I can keep it running itll soon stablize back to 1k rpm but still has the slight misfiring feel.

So I did some research and came to the conclusion that its most likely the AAC valve but I just want to confirm this before I start ripping things apart because it doesnt look like the easiest job.So any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Aac would normally be something to look at first, but the fact that the afms are disconnected on a stock ecu is really odd. I would be sussing that out first. How does the car drive? Also the usual plugs and coil pack clean/grease and normally clean afms/solder but on your case get them plugged in! What happens if you plug then in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
seventhirteen Enthusiast

seventhirteen

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well the car drives normal with them unplugged but one of the first things I did was find the plugs and plugged them back in. Made no difference so im guessing they were unplugged because it wasnt necessary for the car to run. So im also guessing cleaning out the AFMs wont help?

How does a stock GTR run without the AFMs not plugged in? Do they even run correctly without them? Is there anyway I can find out if its got a aftermarket ECU?

Edited by seventhirteen
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Passenger side kick panel. Take it off and the metal box in there is the ECU.

If you cant work out what it is take a pic and post back in this thread.

Edit: If the AFM's aren't plugged in then it is likely to be Mafless (meaning an aftermarket ECU).

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
Share on other sites
seventhirteen Enthusiast

seventhirteen

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Passenger side kick panel. Take it off and the metal box in there is the ECU.

If you cant work out what it is take a pic and post back in this thread.

Edit: If the AFM's aren't plugged in then it is likely to be Mafless (meaning an aftermarket ECU).

ibgg.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Yeh just took a quick picture. Looks pretty stock. How can it run normally without the AFMs plugged in? How exactly do they run without them in?
Edited by seventhirteen
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

ok Stock

R32
RB26DETT
23710-05U62
Feb 93
Dec 94
2371M-05U62
MT

Maybe that's why it's running ruff (hunting etc..)

Go through what Superben mentioned above.

Checking further it could be a Mines re-written CPU too. Which wont change the above

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Type the numbers into google - there is apost on GTROC which is a UK forum.

It appears to be a stock 93 ECU for R32 GTR's. Doesn't mean your GTR isn't a 94 Model.

Just means the ECU was made between Feb 93 and Dec 94 (I think anyways, but read the thread :thumbsup: )

EDIT: MT is Manual Transmission. 05U62 appears to be R32 GTR specific and 23710 is likely specific to ECU and date made somehow :wacko:

Someone else may know as I am just ASSuming :)

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rezz
      Japan Scrapbook

      By Rezz · Posted

      G.G.C. (Gibier German Cook) restaurant in Motomachi in Kobe: A tiny 2 floor restaurant that was founded in 1976. The original couple who owned/ran it retired and sold the business to a corporation who pretty much tried to keep it the same as it was.  Lots of lesser known (to me anyway) German beers available.  Venison with vegetables. The meat came from deer from Hokkaido. The chef told us that there's a whole industry around the use of all parts of the deer from the antlers to the hooves. Sure enough, directly accross the street from this restaurant is a shop that sells all manner of utensils, clothes and objet d'art all made from deer skin, bones and horns.... also owned by the same corporation. The venison was super tender 😋 Various decorations, a lot of which were quite old, no doubt from the original owners. A nice pilsner too which I'd never seen before.  It's well worth a visit but check the opening hours, they're closed on Wednesdays, only open 11:30am - 3pm on Mondays and Tuedays, 11:30am-3pm for lunch and 5pm-11:30pm on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-9pm on Sundays. Last order is 30mins before close.
    • Rezz
      Japan Scrapbook

      By Rezz · Posted

      Yep around 2m long or thereabouts.  I made another post in the photo diaries 17 years later lol. I swear it has not been that long!
    • acsplit
      SAU Motorkhana Saturday 18th May Avalon including entry list.

      By acsplit · Posted

      Full results via link below https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1inu1mRRO0WjV2-3vGYsjnmYggVOzmApWOby68GwPGcI/edit?usp=sharing  
    • BK
      Another BK R32 GTR money pit...

      By BK · Posted

      Have I not posted since 2022 ? wow... Yes, it's pretty much finished mechanically. I'll probably sell it soon as the old man is 80 in November, so 99% he won't ever drive it again. I don't really need 3 GT-R's and I haven't driven any of them since September last year - correction, drove my 33 earlier this year on Australia day. All of them have been like this since then.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, after talking to Tyson at Auto Tech Engineering about my "cunning plan", he suggested to "not piss money away on stuff that the car probably doesn't need" (the max IAT at the end of the 1/4 ever only seen around 30°C, which is in no way a issue, and as such, for what I use the car for I really don't need colder IAT anyway The whole point of the "upgrades" that I thought about doing was that my IAT started creeping up from 25°C to 30°C when cruising, then drop back down, then raise back up, rinsing and repeating, it has never done that before, so after talking to FI interchillers they assumed that it was the Bosch pump starting to fail, and if I was going to replace the pump....... I would do my usual thing of "while where in there" But, Tyson said he has seen similar things happen to IAT with failing or leaking AC compressors on other cars with interchillers, and as the AC compressor is 22 years old it is probably well on the way out anyway, and if a electric water pump fails it stays failed and doesn't just speed up and slow dow, but if a AC compressor starts to fail or is leaking, it will fluctuate and give a typical result to the IAT He said he could test the compressor and see how it is functioning and pressure test the whole system, but, as I do, I've just got them to order a new compressor to install to start with, and do a AC service and see if that fixes the issue That way, if it is the compressor, I wouldn't be spending lots of coin on something that wasn't the issue, and not actually needed, as the stage 2 kit, and pump, comes in at around $2k in parts alone, not including the plumbing and other parts that will be required or labour  And apparently the Bosch pump I have is really reliable and well up to task for the flow/pressure requirements that I need to keep my intercooler and massive amounts of boost heat (7 psi LOL) under control giving a nice and cold IAT A big shout out to Tyson for this, not many people will talk a idiot out of wasting money on car modifications, and the saved car budget funding can be wasted elsewhere on things that I may, or may not, need, like a nice new leather SS interior with red stitching......maybe I can convince the Minister for War and Finances into a nice trip down to Victoria for a week away to see the sights (I'll explain that I will need a hire car once we're down there so we don't have to worry about the Commodore being parked up on the streets at night, and it just so happens there's a joint that I can store it during that time) $1680 for all of the interior trims, + installation cost (I'll ask for a quote to install the trim if the new compressor fixes the issue)   https://leatherseats.com.au/products/leather-seats-trim-skins-kit-to-fit-vt-vx-vy-ser1-ss-green-black-diy-install  
×
×
  • Create New...