Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't trust myself to be able to reset it exactly without a timing light, I'm also scared that if it "fixes" the problem I might have just masked another problem. Definitely worth me checking the base timing though.

Cheers for all the help guys, appreciate the brain storming!

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Even though the log says it's running 20degrees Btdc at full torque if the cas is not set right it will be out by that amount

So say it's at 5 it will be +10 across the whole map and reason why it's sluggish and low on power meaning it will be at 10 instead at full torque

I think rb std is 15Btdc at 750rpm

Also don't go thrashing too long with the cas advanced as it might be pinging and you can't hear it but alil pinging won't be harmfull it's only if you are at full song for long periods

Best to check it with a timing light

It's easy to get it wrong as if the idle is to high when set it will be showing more advance the higher the idle as the ecu uses timing to adjust idle .

So if you have nissan data scan you can lock it in timing mode to set base timing or just dissconnect the tps and lower the idle via iacv screw to 650-750rpm and then set cas till 15

Ok I bought a timing light, where is the indicator on the motor? my crank pulley has no marking or anything on it, is it on the cam gear instead?

there is the indicator above the pulley but nothing on the actual pulley to indicate degrees or any coloured marking at all.

bnfc.png

Edited by Rolls

turn on engine and point gun at the pulley, they should be heaps obvious then. Also you should use a plug lead between the coil and plug to connect gun to as the loop can cause issues.

Well I was feeling lazy so I just marked the timing and adjusted it and took it for a spin, ending up winding it about as far advanced as possible and it didn't ping nor did it feel any faster, idle went up maybe 50rpm max.

Put it back where I marked it but now I am really baffled, surely it should ping if I move it to full advance?

Once it cools down I will try dropping the exhaust, dont think the nighbours are going to like me.

Edited by Rolls

Ok put a wire between the spark plug and the coilpack and used the timing gun. It is bang on the first mark and looks like this:

T

O || | |

An orange mark, followed by a black mark followed by two slits and it is bang on the first slit, is this 15 degrees?

Looking at the manual it should be 5,10,15 per slit but I only have two slits total?

RB26+Ignition+Timing.JPG

Edited by Rolls

Looks like the first slits are just missing, anyway I think I'm chasing the wrong problem if advancing it doesn't make it drive any better and it is smack bang on a line implying it hasn't slipped from somewhere else (would likely be inbetween two lines if that was the case).

Edit: I have an r34 neo but I'm fairly sure we used either an r33 or r32 front pulley, I don't know if it goes on only one way or you can put it on so the timing marks are completely wrong, anyone remember if it is notched and only goes on one way?

Edited by Rolls

It should be on the 4th mark also the marks should be evenly spaced so either the pulley might be different or just dirty

Also you did go the right way to advance the timing right ?

If not timing belt may be one tooth out

Try pulling no 1 spark plug out then put a screwdriver in there and turn the engine by hand till it's comes to the top

And that will be tdc and see what mark on the pulley corresponds

Take of the top timing cover and take a photo of where the cam gears are at and tell you if it's right

Note you might have to go one more revoloution of the crank till the cam gear marks are at the top

Edited by hy_rpm

It should be on the 4th mark also the marks should be evenly spaced so either the pulley might be different or just dirty

Also you did go the right way to advance the timing right ?

If not timing belt may be one tooth out

Try pulling no 1 spark plug out then put a screwdriver in there and turn the engine by hand till it's comes to the top

And that will be tdc and see what mark on the pulley corresponds

Take of the top timing cover and take a photo of where the cam gears are at and tell you if it's right

Note you might gave to go one more revoloution of the crank till the cam gear marks are at the top

I turned it all the way to the left like the picture says to advance the timing.

Also does it feel very laggy to rev up in neutral ?

If your timing belt was 1 tooth out retarded you won't even get enough advance with the cas fully turned

I actually am starting to think that, I will take the timing belt cover off next.

It does feel laggy even in neutral.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...