Jump to content
SAU Community

Gah - My Turbo Is Dying! Help!

Clowndog

By Clowndog,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Clowndog Contributor

Clowndog

Posted
Posted

Hi guys - after I made it all the way to 150,000 km my turbo has finally decided it's going to that great junkyard in the sky.
I live in Brisbane and am a little concerned about who can repair/replace the turbo and what my best options are.
Has anybody got advice on either where to take my car, and/or what my best repair options are?
I love you long time for help!

CHeers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434008-gah-my-turbo-is-dying-help/
Share on other sites
DaveM35 Collaborator

DaveM35

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah hypergear in Victoria do highflows, probably best option, replacement genuine turbo is very expensive. You can find info about hypergear on here by doing a search or they even usually advertise on eBay for m35 turbo rebuild options. Don't know anyone doing them in Queensland but someone on here might.

Edited by DaveM35
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

People often suggest highflows, but never seem to ask what the use case is or mention the downside. If your car is stock and going to stay that way i'm sure Hypergear can just rebuild your turbo with a stock like, but alloy wheeled, CHRA. You may well prefer the responsiveness of that option to a highflow.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

It's still a highflow Adam, the housings need to be machined either way, even for the smallest wheel options he has.

The M35 stock ecu can handle most turbo upgrades, but the larger ones are simply too laggy on the factory map. Only go for the more expensive SS2 billet option if you plan to run an Emanage Ultimate or similar.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

It's still a highflow Adam, the housings need to be machined either way, even for the smallest wheel options he has.

Interesting - are there no CHRAs to fit the stock housing, or does he just not supply them? How much laggier is the smallest highflow he does?

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

This is an SMS I got from a guy I did an precision ss1 turbo for:

Hi, I've finally got around to fitting the turbosmart bleed and I also replaced the bov with a turbosmart plumback. The car is driving great and has even less lag with the leaky bov replaced. I just took the car down to is motorsports to do a few dyno runs to check the a/f's and the car made 183kw's at 6000rpm with over 150kw's from 3400rpm with a max of just under 17psi boost dropping to just over 15psi. The a/f's were surprisingly good too sitting on about 11.5 at full load.

This is just an FYI that these cars have quite a bit more in them with the standard ecu and injectors. It's not so much the power that interested me with the car....it was the amount of torque!

Gottastag_M35 Apprentice

Gottastag_M35

Posted
Posted

I'm in the same boat with my wife's stagea, it's always had the banshee wail but recently has started to puff out a little grey smoke under boost. Can't complain though as it's got nearly 170k on the clock.

I will going the hyper gear rebuild/high flow route so will let you know the results once it's done, I am lucky in that I have a spare turbo needing rebuilding that I can send off and have the car drivable in the meantime. The biggest concern I have is changing the thing over as by all accounts this is seriously a PITA (I will gratefull accept some how to advice via PM from any experts in the house)

If you want a spare turbo to do the same I would be happy to sell my old one once the changeover is done.

Clowndog Contributor

Clowndog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

THanks for the replies guys. My car was basically undriveable, I limped it to my local mechanic friend and he's attempting to get to the source of the problem in the next day or so.
Being a regular mechanic though, he will have to send the turbo off to get repaired/replaced and I actually think he's going to a local turbo specialist - but I'm expecting the cost to run into the thousands...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...