Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First thing to do:

timing belt, water pump

Reason why?

Most imports have had their clock wound back, or clusters have been replaced

Then:

  1. Full exhaust (just get 2nd hand) ~$500
  2. Intercooler of some sort, even a R34 GT-t side mount $100
  3. Hit up Toshi for a socketed stock ECU with a new ROM tuned for AU 98 Octane fuel ~$350
  4. Turbotech MBC 0.8bar ~$30
  5. Fry tyres ~Priceless

The only thing I would add to that is a new fuel pump. The second worst thing that can happen to a 20 year old car after a shredded timing belt, is a failng fuel pump.

Edited by Missileman

Johnny's list is solid.

If you want to go further than that you will find out that everything on the R33 has been sized just right for factory output plus a little more. Figure out what your ultimate power goal is and work back from there to see what needs to be done.

This times 1000!!! I spent about 20 grand on mine when I bought it. Thinking back now could of saved a lot of time and MONEY by researching more. I would of saved about 8 grand and over a year of time for a better result.

Ha ha. I also would have saved a bucket load. 3 turbo's before i reached my power goal,

Part of doing timing belt and waterpump is replacing cam seals. They will leak, they cost less than 10 bicks each and you have to take timing belt off to do them, so do then at same time.

First thing to do:

timing belt, water pump

Reason why?

Most imports have had their clock wound back, or clusters have been replaced

Then:

  1. Full exhaust (just get 2nd hand) ~$500
  2. Intercooler of some sort, even a R34 GT-t side mount $100
  3. Hit up Toshi for a socketed stock ECU with a new ROM tuned for AU 98 Octane fuel ~$350
  4. Turbotech MBC 0.8bar ~$30
  5. Fry tyres ~Priceless

Who's Toshi? lol

P.S Thanks for the help fellas!

Just a thought, see if you can pick up an rb20det turbo actuator and swap it with the rb25 turbo actuator. I've seen the individual actuators sell for around $50. The rb25 turbo actuator is set on roughly 7 psi whereas the rb20 turbo actuator is set on 10 psi.

Just a thought anyway.

Part of doing timing belt and waterpump is replacing cam seals. They will leak, they cost less than 10 bicks each and you have to take timing belt off to do them, so do then at same time.

Agreed, mine leaked at about 160k and they were rock hard. Chalk that up as number 6 on the list of things the dropkick knuckledraggers I took it to for the 100k service didn't do properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha ha, yeah, I've had one following me around in my parts boxes since about 2007 I believe. Just a little iddy bit hole drilled in the one I have to let it vent out once pressure was removed from the engine side. Still no idea what I'd put it on, ha ha.
    • Just read this... Just a little bit of a wild one! Do you think the driver was testing out a new feature/device for how to lose the cops in a high speed chase?   I also suspect, if the box has a road sweeper that does magnetic metal pick up, he does a LOT of work in the machining industry. Which is what most of that looked like, machining chips from a mill or lathe. And I bet they're RAZOR sharp! And from an environmental perspective they really do need to actually collect all of those little pieces too. I wonder how many people still cop flat tires over the coming months on that road?   As for insurance company, yeah, it'd be interesting to hear what they say to the owner. But realistically, he's right, that "It's his fault". In the way that, it was his truck that spilled it, so they need to clean it up. However, neither he, nor his insurance company may bear the end cost if they do an investigation and find out it was caused by someone elses negligence (And they know who)...
    • Yeah, no matter what bad things people can say about Julian from Autospeed, he at least was capable of thinking and his inclusion of a check/relief valve in the plumbing for the Audi boost controller, that I made a copy of and used for years**, completely eradicated that problem. **It's still lying on my workbench where I put it about, um, 18 years ago and have never found a home for it!
    • I didn't actually know this! I've seen photos of the H1, mainly outside shots, and they just look "different". I guess there'd be a few little changes like nicer rims, and probably the fact they have nicer looking paint with some depth and shine, which will make any vehicles body look different to the very flat colours of the defence force.   I've watched the guys on GHPC convert their Humvee to LS1, and they've done some really nice front shock upgrade. I'm waiting for the next video on it with the rear end done. I can't remember if they've already done it, or I dreamed it, but I believe they're also supercharging theres. They will be in the future doing proper long travel suspension too.   If you ditch out your big V8, as rubbish as it must be, send it to my place. I'll let the unreliable V8 motor and box be here. I just like V8s... So I'll find something to do with it... Even if that something is just taking up valuable space in the yard. I might have something Skyline I can send back in payment... Or even Ford Barra motors  (From memory you're in Canada yeah?) So you can then play with the legendary Aussie 4L version of an RB...  Except they don't have that distinctive random miss at idle like the RB25 does.
    • Or you mean the age old problem of early 2000's manual boost tees, where they never let the pressure out of the line between the boost tee, and the waste gate, so after your first trip on boost, the damn wastegate liked to stay open and be laggy on gear change?
×
×
  • Create New...