Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Flick Tom a email at PPG. He owns the ex PPG demo GTR and says the box has been in the car for 7 years, 40,000 kms and no issues/freshen ups. That's the helical 1-4 dog set.

How much do you value lightening fast shifts? Don't forget, that particular gear set, the ratios are substantially taller than factory (1-3).

Flick Tom a email at PPG. He owns the ex PPG demo GTR and says the box has been in the car for 7 years, 40,000 kms and no issues/freshen ups. That's the helical 1-4 dog set.

How much do you value lightening fast shifts? Don't forget, that particular gear set, the ratios are substantially taller than factory (1-3).

Do you mean the helical or straight cut has tall ratios? If anything the GTR needs shorter ratios

Do you mean the helical or straight cut has tall ratios? If anything the GTR needs shorter ratios

They both have taller ratios.

Assuming a 265/35x18 tyre and stock ratios and a rev limit of 8000 RPM the speeds are as follow

Stock

1st - 75

2nd - 120

3rd - 180

PPG Helical and straight cut dog

1st - 89

2nd - 143

3rd - 189

OS GIKEN

1st - 87

2nd - 138

3rd - 190

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Quaife only make the first series bushed shifter, but that isn't any good in my opinion. You cannot really use the stock shifter as it breaks the plastic bush after selecting reverse a few times.

I am investigating weather or not the OS88 direct shifter will work, but I have my reservations as it is made for the forward-back two-way selection of the sequential and is probably too short for the 6 speed H-pattern.

Best bet would be to have one custom-made. I am getting one for mine custom-made soon...I can get two made if you like.

Alternatively, you could buy an Ikeya sequential shifter conversion...but they aren't cheap

Charlie, why not just buy the os88 shifter. There are two to choose from. A straight one or a bent one.

http://otomoto.mobile034.com/p/8548992/os-giken-os-88-direct-shifter-kit.html

The OS88 shifter won't have enough leverage to go across when selecting reverse (needs to be slightly longer).

I have an OS88 shifter that I will try to confirm this, but looking at it, it won't work. Selcting 1 - 6 is fine, it's the extra few mm needed to go across and up into reverse that is the issue. And the narrow reverse idler gear of the Trust box is prone to wearing out due to this (I just replaced mine due to this issue).

Plus, I would rather the rest of the OS88, not just the shifter :D

I just missed out on a slightly used complete option 2 kit at a top price the other week...pity the Yen is so much stronger these days.

Plus, OSG say 2 month wait but it is usually 4 months....and $$$ upfront

However, if there are a few together, it will apparently be quicker....

We know that, can't do anything about it.

I need to know if you're in with us or not that way I have a firm number to try and bargain with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...